cam tdc adjustment

So I have the repair book for the 78 kz650. It says the cam sprockets for the exhaust and the intake have to be lined up with the engine casing. The intake facing behind the bike aligned with the engine case and the exhaust facing forward aligned with the casing. And 36 pins between the two arrows. Now it's not completely detailed as to if it's supposed to be flush with the engine. Flush? Or near flush idk. Any experience is welcome. Pleaaase!

The timing marks should be flush with the cam cover gasket face. Get your EX lined up first and count the links, the camcover has a camchain guide in the top which slightly indents the camchain top run, which will bring your IN into line. If you tap down on the chain top run it should be enough just to put a little slack in it and pull the IN around a few degrees.

If things don't line up, either your head has been skimmed and/or your camchain is badly worn.

Hi. I've tried everywhere to find this info. ... and I think I read a blog from you that confirms but I can't find it...is it correct the 1983 Gpz750 cams are set to the z6ex mark not z7ex as stated in the 1981 manual. I have the 1981 manual with the 1982 & 1983 supplements but can't see any reference to different settings. It only refers to 1983 not having speedo gear drive on the ex cam and for the remainder of the set up it says it's the same as previous model ie set at z7ex? If you can confirm it would help me out heaps . Cheers Brian

A pic of what you're talking about would be helpful.
Steve

I agonised over whether the camshaft marks needed to be flush, or near flush with the cam cover face after changing some valve shims on my z650B1. But after some research I determined that if the marks are slightly out when at TDC, it means there is some chain stretch, but it's not critical.

In my case the exhaust cam mark was slightly higher and the inlet camshaft slightly lower than the cam cover face, which resulted in slightly retarded cam timing.

I found this quote which explains the effect -
"a retarded cam will produce slightly more power at high RPM (producing slightly less power at lower RPM levels). Advancing or retarding the camshaft timing does not necessarily produce MORE power, it just changes the power output at upper or lower RPM levels. It is really just a trade-off."

Brian

You set the exhaust cam timing correctly, count the pins to the mark on the intake and you're done.
Steve

Yeah... that tiny amount if pin wear in the 28 pins between the two cams of Z1-KZ1k is pretty small, with respect to upsetting the actual cam timing.
If it was critical, the cam sprockets would all be adjustable or the mounting to the cam would be slotted so you could advance them a couple degrees.
if you are looking for that last 2HP.... I guess buying the APE sprockets is the way to go.

The word agonizing is getting to me. Like Cher said, "GET OVER IT." :woohoo:
Steve

It's really hard to get it lined well when the lobes are pushing on some of the buckets at points

I put it one link down and tighten the cam. If it's not right, I use a screw driver to rotate the cam in the right direction. Make sure it's at TDC, if good count the pins. On the Z1/KZ 900-1000, you start counting the next pin up. I don't know about yours. Hopefully you have a manual. Bent valves can be the result of getting it wrong.
Steve

Macco the ZX750A1 cams time off the Z7EX mark.

Mine was very slightly up on the ex and down on the intake due to wear for years ...... after replacing the 2 rubber wheels 1 with a Liska and 1 a new lower rubber wheel it was about as perfectly lined up as you could ask for but after the new rubber wheel wore in (600 mile break in) and re tightening the adjuster its back to being maybe a line retarded again.

The pin count is the main thing here..... good to know at least it gives a tiny bit of top end to be retarded too. :silly: