what happens when you over rev a kz650?

I was riding down this road in 5th gear....somewhere above 6500 rpm (i cant really tell because my gauges bounce) i got the feeling that the gear basically dropped out as if it was in neutral then i let off the gas a little and the power came back on...did i redline it?

Standard tune motors seem to last really well, look after them and there are guys here that have had them for decades.

Over revving or missing gears can cause bent valves, again the standard tune is quite forgiving to abuse.
Tuned motors with big cams and high compression and there is a much narrower safety margin.

Regular oil changes and not thrashing them when cold is the main thing on these. If you have damaged anything form the missed gear you will notice the difference fairly soon

that didnt answer my question

blink543 wrote: that didnt answer my question

Yes he did.

Doesn't fit any description I've every heard of redlining....
In 5th gear at anywhere near 6500rpm (even 2 grand over) unless for an extended period, there's really no concern with problems associated with redlining
It takes quite a distance to wind out a KZ650 in high gear to redline :blink:
Of course this all only applies to a stock engine Once you start changing hard parts in a engine all bets are off, each one must be hand fitted, measured, test assembled to check clearances, etc etc basically whatever it takes to build a high performance motors of any type :ohmy:
I guess a really missed shift with a WOT could cause bent valves, but it would have to be extreme and it would still be running shitty
The beginnings of clutch trouble ???? cable ready to break and binding in the sleeve?? Maybe just adjustment
Not really enough of a description of the problem to guess any closer :huh: Or maybe there is :blush:

well the last time i took the clutch apart i replaced just the clutch springs they were totally worn and i was slipping like shit. now its not slipping anymore BUT maybe it is at those higher rpms...i checked the friction plates at the time and they were in spec. maybe i should just replace them now? idk. and my timing isnt stock...i looked at it today. its a newer style but idk what it is or how to set it.

blink543 wrote: well the last time i took the clutch apart i replaced just the clutch springs they were totally worn and i was slipping like shit. now its not slipping anymore BUT maybe it is at those higher rpms...i checked the friction plates at the time and they were in spec. maybe i should just replace them now? idk. and my timing isnt stock...i looked at it today. its a newer style but idk what it is or how to set it.

Sounds like it could be a multitude of problems, Only way to go is start eliminating things 1 at a time, then testing before moving one to the next item, or you will just be chasing you tail.

If my clutch springs were totally worn, I'd never had used the old friction plates, wouldn't even measure them, I'd just buy new ones, sometimes it's just easier in the long run to replace all of certain parts in certain areas :ohmy:

Also need to research the ignition and try to find directions for setting it out and checking, it could be off ???

Sure sounds like a missed shift to me, if valves got bent I don't think the engine would even run.
How do you know for certain your timing is off? What exactly is different/non stock? pictures say a thousand words.

I was just cruising in 5th letting the rpms creep higher and higher then I had a drop out of power and for some reason this site won't let me upload pics

Keep trying, you'll get the hang of it.
Steve

blink543 wrote: I was riding down this road in 5th gear....somewhere above 6500 rpm (i cant really tell because my gauges bounce) i got the feeling that the gear basically dropped out as if it was in neutral then i let off the gas a little and the power came back on...did i redline it?

I know in cars if you rev it high enough you can "float" a valve where the valve spring doesn't pull it back fast enough and it hits the piston. The machinist who did my 750 twin said the valve springs were strong enough to easily handle 10k revs even though the redline is about 8K on it.