Noisy kz550

New exhaust seals, fresh oil and we're still ticking warm. Haven't summoned the courage to start on the CCT yet. Everyone is telling me bent valves, and I'm about to give up. I've looked at a GSX and a ZXR in the last week. Both fit me better for my height, and I'm afraid the head on my KZ might be cooked.

Noooo GSX11 I've owned and ZRX12 I've rode, the bigger they are the fatter and heavier they get. the seat height isn't much different.

My 'biggest' bike is my 550, just adding 10-15mm on the rear makes a big difference, just don't overdo it.

My 550 is rattling. hence the recent big bore clearance thread. I'll make a new post soon and find out what it is. I suspect a small end rod bearing,

Ouch. Rod bearing?
Pontiac, don't give up too soon. I have a Z1 built out to 1015. I love it but the little 550 I would ride with pride. It's a nice little bike. Too bad I have to sell it.
Steve

My plan from here is to finish the CCT job. I may be misplacing a cam chain noise. I'll throw plugs in it and then pull the cam covers. Need new cam cover gaskets anyway, they leak. If it isn't a valve issue, I'll look for a new motor.

New cam chain tensioner in. For the record, I had to crank it in further than I thought I would. First time I was a bit light with it. Clattered horribly. Second time I just got a chain whirrrrrrr. Third time I rocked the crank as stated and waited for a significant change in tension while cranking the screw in. Didn't lock it down firmly. Sounded good til it worked its way loose. Fourth time, no noise from the chain. Sounds like it's running better too. Sounds I never paid attention to are gone.


Still. Ticking. CRAP!





So we press on. I'm ordering new plugs soon and new cam cover gaskets. I hope to pull the plugs and investigate for signs of improper burn causing detonation or fuel knock. I also need to reseal the cam covers anyway, so I may as well investigate the top end components with it apart.


I can't find a shop to sync the carbs and adjust the valves. I talked to Metric Motorsports earlier, and the mechanic said "A what? Is it stock? What was it? I'll have to pass on that." I talked to M&S. Their mechanic injured his back and they were going to "check on something and call me back." Guess whose phone never rang. Don't want to call Babbitt's, they're a Kaw dealer and generally very high.

Is it likely the carbs are making the noise anyway?

Obviously you don't have a manual. Don't do anything without one. You can adjust the valves if you have one. You might as well buy a set of gauges being you are willing to give your money to a shop. You need to know what's going on in your engine.
Steve

I appreciate the help. I have this. It told me to plan on replacing the needle bearings in my swing arm if I wanted to change my rear sprocket and I lost faith at removing the swing arm instead of using a chain breaker. It's been useful for exploded diagrams and that's it. I'm not a complete idiot, but close. Maybe I'm just not getting something about the layout of the book? I've swapped car engines, I work on machines professionally, but I can't make sense of a lot of this. Where do you honestly recommend I start?


Update: I read the section on valve shimming. I'm lost. Sorry guys. I have gauges, dial indicators, calipers, etc. But this doesn't make sense to me.

It's not too difficult. The shims are under the Lifter cup (cam follower) You have to remove the cams. First you rotate the engine and use a feeler gauge to measure them. Make a chart and jot down the sizes. .002, .004 whatever. If you decide to do this, we'll wank you through just like all the others.
Steve