exhaust studs

  • mithrander
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exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 12:22
#675512
Have a new set of 6mm exhaust studs for my 76 kz900. Old studs already removed. I see that 1 end has more thread than the other. hich end goes into the head the one with more threads or less? thanks

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  • Randombeat
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Re: exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 12:39
#675515
Can you check partzilla for a parts diagram, that may show the orientation?
1980 KZ750H LTD-- pods-- vance & hines 4-1 --speedo/tach/blinker/switch deletes -- brat style

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  • 650ed
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Re: exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 14:22
#675533
I would use a small diameter rod or dowel, or a caliper depth gauge if you have one, to measure the depth of the stud holes in the cylinder head. You will probably find that the depth of the holes are less that the longest threaded portion of the stud.

If that is true, whatever you do, DO NOT screw in a threaded end that is longer than the hole is deep. If you do, the stud will bottom out in the hole. If that happens the stud will pull the threads out of the cylinder head as you continue to tighten it, and you will be off to find a good machinist. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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  • SWest
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Re: exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 14:53
#675538
Sound advice. I haven't had mine out in a long time but as I remember, the head takes the most threads.
Steve

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  • mithrander
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Re: exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 14:53
#675539
Ok thanks

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  • missionkz
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Re: exhaust studs

06 Jun 2015 17:04 - 11 Jun 2015 10:06
#675545
The exposed threads, those that the diffuser and header pipe are connected to, measures 1/2" of thread length.
And by that, I mean only the exposed threaded part of the stud... not the entire length of exposed stud. There is a 1/2" worth of threads.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
Last edit: 11 Jun 2015 10:06 by missionkz.

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  • ezrider714
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Re: exhaust studs

10 Jun 2015 20:34
#676102
once the stud bottoms out you will no longer be able to turn it in and there will be no danger of pulling out the threads in the head. :dry:
This will keep the stud from turning as you put the nut on over the clamp and tighten the individual pipes in place :ohmy:
78 KZ650SR Mine since 79
4-1 Mac Jet Hot coated since mid 80's
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  • 650ed
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Re: exhaust studs

11 Jun 2015 05:18 - 11 Jun 2015 05:19
#676123
ezrider714 wrote: once the stud bottoms out you will no longer be able to turn it in and there will be no danger of pulling out the threads in the head. :dry:
This will keep the stud from turning as you put the nut on over the clamp and tighten the individual pipes in place :ohmy:

This has not been my experience. I've had it happen numerous times on my old bike. The problem is that as you continue to tighten it after it bottoms out the stud (or bolt) has no place to go so as it turns it pushes the threads out. Been there, done that. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Last edit: 11 Jun 2015 05:19 by 650ed.

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Re: exhaust studs

11 Jun 2015 06:44
#676132
If the nut is munged up or rusty, it should be replaced. Heat and water will make them unuseable. The studs are not intended to come out in this manner.
Steve

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  • ezrider714
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Re: exhaust studs

13 Jun 2015 21:41
#676480
Must have used a hell of a breaker bar :ohmy: When a stud bottoms out it can no longer be turned with normal force, cause as you state it has nowhere to go and a simple wrench can not force it to go nowhere. I'm sure with excessive force the threads can began to give way but feel should prevent that from ever occurring :blink:
78 KZ650SR Mine since 79
4-1 Mac Jet Hot coated since mid 80's
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