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exhaust studs
- mithrander
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- Randombeat
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- 0 to 100 real quick...
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1980 KZ750H LTD-- pods-- vance & hines 4-1 --speedo/tach/blinker/switch deletes -- brat style
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- 650ed
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If that is true, whatever you do, DO NOT screw in a threaded end that is longer than the hole is deep. If you do, the stud will bottom out in the hole. If that happens the stud will pull the threads out of the cylinder head as you continue to tighten it, and you will be off to find a good machinist. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- mithrander
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- missionkz
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And by that, I mean only the exposed threaded part of the stud... not the entire length of exposed stud. There is a 1/2" worth of threads.
Bruce
1977 KZ1000A1
2016 Triumph T120 Bonneville
Far North East Metro Denver Colorado
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- ezrider714
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This will keep the stud from turning as you put the nut on over the clamp and tighten the individual pipes in place :ohmy:
78 KZ650SR Mine since 79
4-1 Mac Jet Hot coated since mid 80's
Dyna Coils
Saddlebags (I ain't skeered of going nowhere)
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- 650ed
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ezrider714 wrote: once the stud bottoms out you will no longer be able to turn it in and there will be no danger of pulling out the threads in the head. :dry:
This will keep the stud from turning as you put the nut on over the clamp and tighten the individual pipes in place :ohmy:
This has not been my experience. I've had it happen numerous times on my old bike. The problem is that as you continue to tighten it after it bottoms out the stud (or bolt) has no place to go so as it turns it pushes the threads out. Been there, done that. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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Steve
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- ezrider714
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78 KZ650SR Mine since 79
4-1 Mac Jet Hot coated since mid 80's
Dyna Coils
Saddlebags (I ain't skeered of going nowhere)
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