1977 KZ650 Manual Cam Chain tensioner

Assuming you have the stock 1977 KZ650 tensioner you can just remove and reinstall it as long as you only loosen the 2 bolts that hold it to the engine; do NOT touch the locking bolt on the side of the tensioner; and definitely DO NOT crank the engine over while the tensioner is removed.

There is one problem you may run into, and that is interference between the 2 tensioner bolts and the carbs. Kawasaki used 2 slightly different tensioners in 1977 even though they have the same part number. The shoulder on one type is thinner than that on the other type. The type with the thin shoulder is easy to remove becasue the bolts will slip out of the tensioner without hitting the carbs. The other tensioner is more difficult and may even require loosening the carbs because the 2 tensioner bolts hit the carbs when you are removing them. The tensioner type on the left in the image below is the easy type. Ed

Thanks Ed, I has the shorter collar part type. Was a breeze to change. I cut a gasket and sealed her up. No more leaking there. How much travel is the end? it was extended about 35mm, can't be much left. The oil level is good and it doesn't leak a whole lot, but I am thinking a top end job at some point is probable.

So I noticed a leak of clean oil again near the cam chain tensioner body down the motor case near the starter cover. It does not appear to be a base gasket leak and it is clean oil. I had used a torque wrench 96 inch-lbs to R&R the gasket. The bolts were fastened but had loosened over the past 1000 miles. The engine oil leak is very minor - some mist and a few drops. Oil has been in the sight glass throughout. My question is would anyone use a loctite type product on the tensioner body bolts? I know sparingly so as not o affect the tensioner sears and ratcheting mechanism, but it appears to me that sealants/lock agents etc and KZs don't play well. Also I do not see in the manual how any oil would mist from the starter cover, but that gasket is suspect as well. What say Ye? R

Maybe just a easy re tighten might do it .......... gasket could a seated in a little ...sure its not coming out of the valve cover gasket and running down ?

My tensioner was right at a inch out when I did the rebuild and went from 15/16 after replacing the rubber wheel and Liska wheel to a inch again after the first 100 mile and 600 mile check and retention so yours does seen to be adjusted out pretty far ...... hoping I'm wrong but it seems like I remember checking how much travel it had left and I think it was maybe 1 7/16 or just under before it ran out which is close to where you are now....... I have the shorter style one like you too.

All I can say is, if the adjuster is at it's limit, time to replace the cam chain guides and or rollers. I busted a cam chain using a 450 Honda plunger. (longer) Never again. Bent valves and a broken cam chain was the result.
Steve

Thanks for the input. Valve cover gasket is new and drum tight no leak there. I am nearing the end of travel on the adjuster but it is not too noisy yet. I am pretty sure someone makes machined extenders to use haven't checked yet. R

How can you tell if it's at its limit?

You'll take it off and take out the bolt. You'll see the marks where the bolt held it. It's a ramp and at the end is a stop, that's the limit. To put a longer one in there is asking for trouble.
Steve

Thanks! Actually, I had a question about that, too. I'm sorry if this is dumb, but I just bought this 1978 B2. Love this bike, but have no history so I'm just trying to do everything I can to get it to baseline.

what is the safest location (engine rotation) to remove the tensioner for inspection?

(Shameless noob)

You can rotate it to TDC then take it off. Two bolts. If still good, compress it, lock it with the bolt, put it on, then release the locking bolt. Rotate the engine 1/4 turn and re-lock the bolt. and lock nut.
Have you checked the valve clearance yet? That's the most ignored tune up procedure.
Steve

Excellent, will do.

I'm glad you brought the valve adjustment up. I want to do that ASAP. However, I'm pretty intimidated since I've never done it before. I'm new to shims and buckets. I've adjusted valves on many an air-cooled vw, but never on a motorcycle. I've got a clymer manual ordered, but do have a detailed step-by-step suggestion?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationClymer - ugh! Do yourself a huge favor and buy a Kawasaki Service Manual. They normally are available on eBay; just be sure to get one that covers your bike's exact year and model as there are important differences between different KZ650 models. Ed

Here are a couple. Notice the back cover shows the KZ650-B1: