Can't Get It Running Again ???

I've been slowly working on the 77' KZ1000A for a while and just when I think I have it running somewhat decent, I just can't get the bike to even idle now? Besides the Starter seemingly to skip when being started by the starter button, it does turn over the motor quickly with the New Interstate Battery 210 CCA I have in it now. At times during the start cycle, it appears to skip? Starter Clutch possibly? The starter gear end's teeth were good before I tested the starter and installed it.

As far as the bike's running characteristics, when I first started this bike successfully ( a few months ago ) , I had already set the points gap .014" statically, set the timing statically with test light ( with help from all the forum members ) , rebuilt the stock 26 carbs. totally and set float heights per clear tube method, jetted carbs. per most suggestions given by forum members ( Have the dual carb. pod K&N filters ), checked coils and spark plug wires/caps for resistance according to FSM even though the coils are original as with wires, new spark plugs, and set auto cam chain tensioner ( removed and inspected tensioner-looked good ). Gave the bike 2 throttles turns with choke, hit the starter button. Bike started right up and idled decently with even the carbs. set as they were ( fuel mixture screws out 1 turn ).

Haven't touched any adjustments on the bike and over a period of time of just starting it repeatedly and letting it warm up a couple of minutes, the bike becomes harder and harder to start ???

In fact a couple of days ago, it wouldn't even start at all ? Gas is good and fresh. New fuel lines and filters. Gas tank clean inside.

It almost acts like the bike is out of time? Even though the coils are old as with wires. The points and condenser are used but good shape ( Points barely had any tit in them ). I don't know what's going on ? If the bike is possibly out of time, could that be possibly a worn Cam Chain ? I did have the valve cover off a while back and checked valve adjustment. Within spec ( .003" ) but # 2 cylinder a little snug tight ( 002" ) but can't keep it running long enough to put a timing light on it. Originally bike after sitting over 20 + years I came up with compression #'s of 90 lbs. cylinders 1,3. and 4. I measured 60 lbs. on # 2. But that 's with old oil and kicking it over multiple times, since bike was virtually a non-running basket case.

But the Biggest Confusion is why did it run before half way decent and now it doesn't ?

I now when I did have it running, it seemed to have fumes or vapors coming off the motor but don't know from what. I did Engine Gunk the motor a while back but rinsed all that off with water. I did install a New valve cover gasket as with most other external gaskets and o-rings.

One thing I did notice is that now my Tail Light and Stop is not working? Was working before and Bulb's filaments are good. Not sure what's going on there?

Anyway, any advice would certainly be much welcomed !

I know the motor is probably tired but it would be nice to at least get it running again.

Because you let it sit for few months, gas goes bad quickly like in two weeks. You stated you would go out and start the bike up every now and then and let it run for a few minutes. That is the worst thing you can do. When you start the bike you use the choke and letting it idle in the garage or driveway does not allow the engine to get warmed up enough to burn the spark plugs clean. Because you are probably using a lot of choke to keep it running. Do that enough times and your plugs will eventually foul. I would replace the or clean the plugs and see what happens. If that does not do it then your carbs are probably dirty again from the gas evaporating and leaving that nasty residue behind which clogs up everything. In the future if you are not going to ride the bike at a minimum put some sort of stabilizing agent in the gas and drain the carb bowls.

Baldy110, That might be a possibility. But I only start up the bike using choke then turn off once it's able to idle alone and warm up on it's own? But I could pull the plugs and try cleaning them even though they appear not fouled or gasoline saturated?

I know the motor is probably tired but it would be nice to at least get it running again.

How do you know? dodgy compression from a motor that hasn't run in years, no suprises there...fair chance it will improve with use. New oil and you'll know within an hour or running time so i guess.

Maybe it just needs a good run under load on the road, give the rings a workout and let the spark plugs get up to temp.

Are you getting fat blue sparks? As a diagnostic, drain yer carbs and spray some starter spray into the airbox. If it fires up on this then your problem is feulling. ..If it won't start on that then I'd look further to the ignition.

The FSM specs for coils, leads and caps are a very blunt instrument to stay the least. A resisatnce meter won't really tell you much, a 'drop test' using a 'megger' would be the way to go, not really something auto electricians use. Old bikes always get new HT wires and caps, plus new terminals crimped onto the coils, even if it isn't your problem it always improves things noticably .



Your tail light is a red herring, check the tail fuse (if you have a 3 way box)

Tyrell, I did pull the plugs and really cleaned them well with cleaner and wire brush. Also re-gapped them to .028". Still want to go thru the tune-up procedure from the FSM before attempting to start again. I do have a new set of points/condenser I could install. Coils and Plug wires are old and as you said could use New, but appeared to TOK.

I was trying to avoid spending the money for Dyna coils and wires, but by the time I invest in replacement coils with wires and boots, not too much cheaper than Dyna. And I guess you can use Dyna with stock points for right now or is that not advisable?

As far as the electrical issues that this bike has all of a sudden experienced ( No Stop and Tail light and also instrument lights ), was a working just fine before. Both brake levers were activating brake light in rear before and also instrument lights where working too? I wonder if idling the bike intermittently before when it was running ( even though it was running only for a couple of minutes each time ) maybe got something Hot and shorted? I checked the fuses ( 3 ) and rear tail light bulb and they are good? I posted this electrical question in the Electrical Forum too.

Thank you for any advice as with all of you that have answered this Post !

One thing at a time.
If you have new points and condensers, install them. If that doesn't work check the carbs. Run a guitar string or thin wire through them.
Don't clean plugs with a wire brush. It can leave metal behind shorting them.
try that and get back to us.
Steve