Auto advancer

My bike has been running hot after about 30mins of riding but noticeably hot valve tap and power loss. I took apart the carbs bench synced them and did the float sync with the clear tube put new prints and rebuil the carbs, after that it was running great a lot more power and more responsive. But after a few days and some longer rides nothing major but hour or so it was down on power very hot and backfiring over 5000 took a look at the plugs and they were white, I have the stock airbox boots and filter on and stock jetting. But the advancer is free and moving at 3000 rpm but I do not see a change in timing marks after the advancer moves out. What should I be seeing. Because what it seems like to me is that the advancer is moving freely but not changing the timing over 3000 rpm letting me get realy hot lose lose power and start backfiring.

Sorry I did not see what bike or year this one is ...
So assuming it is an old gronk like mine,
with the engine dead stopped, the lobe of the advance mechanism should be able to rotate clockwise.
Meaning, if the crank shaft is rotating clockwise, the lobe should be able to rotate clockwise a bit further, by a few degrees... about 20 to 30 degrees depending on what bike it is installed in... etc.

When was the last valve adjustment?
Steve

Did you remove the timing advancer to clean, check & lubricate it?

The advancer does not move much above 3000 rpm, and depending on the model, might not move at all above 3000. Do you have a manual? It will show what the timing advance should be.

loudhvx wrote: The advancer does not move much above 3000 rpm, and depending on the model, might not move at all above 3000. Do you have a manual? It will show what the timing advance should be.

Good point.. How do you know what it is supposed to look like with a timing light if you have no manual?
Mine at 900rpm idle has the light flashing at the 'F" mark and at around 2800 rpm it is flashing the "image", way over at the mark near the pin holding the throw out weight.... just pretty much like in the manual

White tip on the spark plug can indicate a lean condition. It should be a light gray or tan. Lean would be consistent with your other symptoms of hotter cylinder temps and backfire, especially on deceleration.

Roblogan wrote: My bike has been running hot after about 30mins of riding but noticeably hot valve tap and power loss. I took apart the carbs bench synced them and did the float sync with the clear tube put new prints and rebuil the carbs, after that it was running great a lot more power and more responsive. But after a few days and some longer rides nothing major but hour or so it was down on power very hot and backfiring over 5000 took a look at the plugs and they were white.

Pods and straight pipes?

He did say stock airbox and jetting. No mention of pipes. What clip position is the needle jet? Might try raising the needle (lower the clip) and see if it helps. I'm assuming your rides are probably extended periods in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range. The hot valve tap may actually be pre-ignition/detonation (ping) from hot spots in the cylinder.

Depending on what year his bike is the jetting can be border line lean
from the factory to meet the EPA reg.'s then add ethanol fuel it will be even leaner.
Also the ethanol blends do not color the plugs like pure gas so plug reading's can be wrong.