Extremely heavy clutch issue??

Hello everyone, My 1977 kz1000 is giving me fits! The clutch works fine but its tremendously hard to pull. My friend has a 1979 mk11 the clutch action is heavenly in comparison. I purchased some cable lube and will try that but was wondering if it is common or maybe a lubrication issue elsewhere. I scared to death the thing will break while I'm riding. Its so hard to pull snapping the cable is a real possibility (no kinks in cable) Thanks in advance!

Have you tried adjusting it? If you've adjusted it and its stil hard to pull Id pull the clutch cover off and see if somebody slipped an aftermarket clutch and those god forsaken heavy duty springs in there.
If its got a set of heavy arse aftermarket springs Id atleast swap them for stockers,if it has an aftermarket clutch Id swap the discs out for stockers also if you have the money.

Lube the cable and adjust the clutch, but also pull the left engine cover and make sure the clutch release mechanism is clean, well lubed, and undamaged. Ed

Grease drys out and makes it hard to pull. It should be serviced yearly.
Steve

Mine was also very heavy before I stripped the bike for a rebuild. I hung the cable up last night with a tube full of WD40 and left it overnight.Ill have a look today and see how it is. I plan to go with an hydraulic conversion though I need to be sure that everything is in fine fettle first. I dont want to buy a new cable if Im switching to hydraulics.

I ve heard that the cables have a hard life as they run down the front of the bike twixt 1 and 2 exhaust and are exposed to a lot of heat as well as all the road crud.

Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for. I have never been into this part of the bike before. I'll disassemble clean and lube. What exactly does the yearly service entail? Also This bike has been heavily modified as a drag bike....how could I identify heavy duty springs (never even seeing the stock ones before? I'm a dam newbie..lol.

650ed wrote: Lube the cable and adjust the clutch, but also pull the left engine cover and make sure the clutch release mechanism is clean, well lubed, and undamaged. Ed

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Just clean all the old grease and funk off the release mechanism and apply fresh, waterproof grease to it and make sure it operates smoothly.

Regarding the clutch - some folks install aftermarket clutches that have an extra steel plate and friction plate. The plates are thinner and tend to eat into the clutch basket more than the stock setup. The stock setup has 7 steel plates and 8 friction plates, and that is more than sufficient for street use. Regarding the springs - I would just replace them with new stock springs and then you will be positive about what's in there. There are 5 of them and they cost less than $4 each, so if you're already into the clutch it's worth doing.

Do you have the Kawasaki Service Manual? If not, I would not open up that clutch until you get one since it details everything you need to know about putting it back together. They normally are available on eBay; be sure to get one for your exact year & model bike. Believe me, they are worth their weight in gold! Ed

A cable that is close to being worn through (like for example right at the handle) can also feel like what you are describing. I'd put on a new cable or at least check and grease the old one. Either hang it overnight after lubing the top with something thin or use a cable lube tool. You could also use a DIY method if you want to save the money.

Something like this:

Lubed up cable and clutch mechanism.....wayy better still tough but doable. Thanks fellas I'll leave a burnout in your honor!

I have 5 Barnett racing clutch springs in my KZ1000A1... I pretty much hate it!
Simply awful in rush hour or stop and go city traffic.
Not sure how I got talked into putting them in because I doubt a 70HP-90HP motor needs
anything but stock KZ springs

You're supposed the use the racing hardware with them. Ball bearing EZ pull etc. I never needed one but I don't go to the track ether.
Steve