KZ1000J3 - Oil Change With Kerker Pipe

Gents,
I would like to start doing my own oil changes. I have a Kerker on the bike that runs under the oil filter/drain hole so unfortunately I will need to remove the pipe. If anyone can pass along some tips regarding getting the pipe off at the engine studs this would be helpful. My concern really is loosening the bolts and inadvertently loosing the studs as I believe they screw in the opposite direction. Also, when re-tightening the nuts with a torch wrench will I have the same problem? I am also concerned about over tightening and breaking a stud. That said - what is the torch spec and best method of re-tightening - I gather a bit on each bolt evenly back and forth will do? I do know I will need to order copper washers from Kawi.

Looking forward to your comments. Thanks.

I have the same pipe on mine. The exhaust studs are not supposed to come out just the nuts. The studs are not reverse threads. If one happens to come out then after you get the pipe off simply double nut that stud and put it back in and torque it down. You will most likely strip out the hole than break the stud off. They don't require that much torque. I have been working on bikes for so long now I don't use torque specs except for the cylinder head nuts. I do most of it by feel, you can feel when they are tight enough. Also remember to re-tighten them after you heat cycle the engine. You can buy the exhaust gaskets at Z1 or ebay. I keep like 2 dozen in the garage at all times. When you have changed the oil a few times you will get the hang of it. I can change my oil in about 45 minutes now.

Thanks. Can you elaborate on heat cycling motor with reinstall of pipe?

Something that was pointed out here is how the keep the split spacers in place. The masking tape suggestion is the best one. I've been doing it without for so long. Next time I'll use a piece of tape. Do it a little at a time until snug.
Steve

That particular Kerker does not use any spacers. Heat cycling is when you go out for a ride warm up the engine then allow the engine to cool, when the engine has cooled off re-tighten the nuts. You will notice they will be loose. You only have to do this once. The nuts get loose from the exhaust gaskets heating up then slightly collapsing and conforming to the header pipe. If you do not re-tighten then you will get an exhaust leak.

Vintage3 wrote: Gents,
I would like to start doing my own oil changes. I have a Kerker on the bike that runs under the oil filter/drain hole so unfortunately I will need to remove the pipe. If anyone can pass along some tips regarding getting the pipe off at the engine studs this would be helpful. My concern really is loosening the bolts and inadvertently loosing the studs as I believe they screw in the opposite direction. Also, when re-tightening the nuts with a torch wrench will I have the same problem? I am also concerned about over tightening and breaking a stud. That said - what is the torch spec and best method of re-tightening - I gather a bit on each bolt evenly back and forth will do? I do know I will need to order copper washers from Kawi.

Looking forward to your comments. Thanks.

That royal pain in the ass (removing the pipe) is why I got rid of my Kerker clone. You may be able to find an aftermarket drain plug assembly that allows you to drain the oil by releasing a snap ring and swinging a metal flap sideways. I finally installed one on my 750 so I didn't have to keep pulling the pipes.

I am also concerned about over tightening and breaking a stud. That said - what is the torch spec and best method of re-tightening - I gather a bit on each bolt evenly back and forth will do? I do know I will need to order copper washers from Kawi.

Make sure to buy a big bag of the copper donut exhaust washers, replace them each time. You won't need to over torque with good washers. I used to hold a 3/8" socket wrench centered in the palm of my hand so I could not over twist the nuts.

Guys,
Appreciate the input. Thanks so much.

Cheers.

Check the documents/650 section...A while back, I posted a scan of a set of vintage header installation instructions...definitely helpful...torque specs vary by model, but are pretty low, I usually just use a stubby ratchet, & common sense...to avoid stripping..."hand tight" is sufficient...just enought to compress the copper rings a bit!