First start, running better

Well i finally got the bike started up again after the complete rebuild. It took a while but once it started up it seemed to be running ok, apart from a very load clicking noise that seemed to be coming for the carb area, i have some short video clips maybe someone could tell me if they have ideas as to what this could be



The next problem came along as the engine started to get warm, all of a sudden the revs jumped up, i didnt want to put too much stress on the new motor so i shut it off. as above here is a video, i wasnt doing anything with the throttle






Last problem should be easy for some of you, can someone please tell me, in what postion is the choke on/open?

Take the filter off and see which lever position makes the choke plate close. That is the choked position.

Loud click: check for wide valve clearance or exhaust leak first.

In the pic, the choke lever is in the open position for normal running.

Pulling the lever upward should close the butterflies to choke off the airflow for cold starting.

Since the bike has pod filters, it would be easyenough to pop one off and check. After 40 or so years, you never know what somebody may have monkeyed with.

Is that a vent not hooked up or vacuum? Take the pods off and feel with your had if there is back pressure coming out of the carbs. If not, it's a loose tappet. Really loose.
Steve

swest wrote: Is that a vent not hooked up or vacuum? Take the pods off and feel with your had if there is back pressure coming out of the carbs. If not, it's a loose tappet. Really loose.
Steve

Im not sure if it is a vaccum, on my manuel, it doesnt exist. I cant imagine it being a loose tappet either as i just had the motor rebuilt.

Anyone have any ideas as to the increse in RPM when it gets warm?

That would indicate a lean mixture. When it warms up the RPM's go up. Put your finger over the fitting and see if there is vacuum. As for it being "just rebuilt" mistakes happen. Check the valve clearances. They all may be out of Spec.
Steve

jsnabbs wrote: ...Anyone have any ideas as to the increse in RPM when it gets warm?

A "racing idle" or a failure to promptly return to idle upon closing the throttle may result from an air leak.

Among other places, air leaks may be through old hardened worn out carb holders, defective vacuum plugs, deteriorated o'rings, loose carb holder clamps, etc.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

jsnabbs wrote: ...Anyone have any ideas as to the increse in RPM when it gets warm?

A "racing idle" or a failure to promptly return to idle upon closing the throttle may result from an air leak.

Among other places, air leaks may be through old hardened worn out carb holders, defective vacuum plugs, deteriorated o'rings, loose carb holder clamps, etc.

Good Fortune!

This make it very clear, its all one and the same problem
Thank you

,often

swest wrote: Is that a vent not hooked up or vacuum? Take the pods off and feel with your had if there is back pressure coming out of the carbs. If not, it's a loose tappet. Really loose.
Steve

Now that you mention it, i think that when i took the bike aprt there was a hose going from that tap back to the airbox. now i have no airbox should i plug it?

No. Is there vacuum? If it's a vent run a tube up and back where the air box was. You should have one on the other carb too.
Steve

Patton wrote:

jsnabbs wrote: ...Anyone have any ideas as to the increse in RPM when it gets warm?

A "racing idle" or a failure to promptly return to idle upon closing the throttle may result from an air leak.

Among other places, air leaks may be through old hardened worn out carb holders, defective vacuum plugs, deteriorated o'rings, loose carb holder clamps, etc.

Good Fortune!

I had mine run like crap found out the carb boots need some sealant towards the head if you or them put those on with no sealant it could be leaking try spraying starter fluid near the boots to see if you get a reaction to the idle if it goes up means there's a leak there ... just lightly spray around the boot ..worked for me