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What valve shims do i need if i know my clearences
- Waynecarpenter
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- SWest
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- 10 22 2014
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- StreetfighterKz
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Later, Doug
1978 z1000 Streetfighter
1976 z900 Stripfighter (work in progress)
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1989 Vmax
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- Patton
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It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.
And the signature may be changed whenever and as often as desired.
If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, it's easy to do.
Here's how:
Good Fortune!
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KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- LarryC
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Waynecarpenter wrote: Ok so i have my clearances written down. How do i figure out what shim i need? Im sure its a simple math equation but i don't want to guess and get the wrong ones. For example my desired clearance is .005 or .127. My current clearance is .008 or .203. What shim do i need to get the desired clearance? Other examples .004 or .102 and .007 or .178. What shim would i need for these? Thanks
Each shim increment of .05 = .0019" of dimensional change [05 * .03937] Keeping in mind that you might not have an exact .008" of lash, here's how shim numbers work out.
Example - Current shim = 2.50 - Current lash = .008" [your first example]
Change to 2.55 shim [1 size or .05mm] = .0019" reduction in lash. [thicker shim]
.008 - .0019 = .0078"new lash [a tight .008]
Change to .260 shim [2 sizes or .10mm] = .0038"
.008 - .0038 = .0042" new lash [a loose .004]
So, as you can see, you're targeting a range rather than a specific lash number. Sometimes you hit your "ideal" target, sometimes not. When not you have to decide between a little loose vs perhaps a little tight. On exhaust valves....it's smart to go with the "little loose" choice.
Generally, don't use a shim that ever puts you "a little tighter" than low rage spec on any valve.
Also, where you check the lash is important. Theoretically, anywhere on the base circle should yield the same measurement. In the real world, it often doesn't pan out. So if you're checking using the sprocket marks then stick with that. If you're checking using the lobe away method [which is the best way IMO] then stick with that.
Larry C.
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- martin_csr
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I think you mean 0.05, 0.08 & 0.04 mm, but the inches don't equate. Apparently, the calculations were done by dividing by 0.0394 instead of multiplying.Waynecarpenter wrote: Ok so i have my clearances written down. How do i figure out what shim i need? Im sure its a simple math equation but i don't want to guess and get the wrong ones. For example my desired clearance is .005 or .127. My current clearance is .008 or .203. What shim do i need to get the desired clearance? Other examples .004 or .102 and .007 or .178. What shim would i need for these? Thanks
To convert metric to Inches, either multiply the metric number by 0.0394 or divide by 25.4:
0.05 x 0.0394 = 0.00197"
0.05 / 25.4 = 0.00197"
Keeping everything metric is simpler.
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- 650ed
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martin_csr wrote: .........................Keeping everything metric is simpler.
+1 ! And if you don't already have one, buying one of these will help too. No inch/metric conversion necessary. Ed
Attachment 00003a_2014-11-26.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- LarryC
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650ed wrote:
martin_csr wrote: .........................Keeping everything metric is simpler.
+1 ! And if you don't already have one, buying one of these will help too. No inch/metric conversion necessary. Ed
Attachment 00003a_2014-11-26.jpg not found
Get a set of feelers that shows both mm and inch values and goes down to .00015" and snag a set of digital calipers. Probably pick up both at Harbor Freight or Sears pretty cheap.
Pick up the phone and order a set of performance cams....tell them you want xxx metric base circle size....then listen to the silence, followed by WTF are you talking about :woohoo:
Larry C.
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- zukdave
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First 3/8" is the small size they run like this 004 and 006 next one
005 and 007 and so on.
Work's great for a go/no go gauge.
1980 KZ650 F1
ZX750A1 motor.
Wiseco 810cc kit.
Zukiworks racing ported head.
VM 29 smooth bore's.
Dyna 2000 Ign. w/Dyna mini coil's
APE cylinder stud's and nut's.
APE valve spring's.
APE Track King clutch.
V/H KZ1000 sidewinder.
3.5x18 laced to a KZ1000 disk hub.
150/60/18 Shinko 006 Podium.
63" wheel base.
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- Waynecarpenter
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