What's wrong with my rotor/starter clutch assembly

There isnt supposed to be any grooving, theres a smooth brass washer that goes there.

Only problem is my good early style ones are on the bikes they belong to so i cant get a pic from a durability standpoint I like the 79-80 set up better

Thanks Floivanus, Sounds like I need to find a new rotor and hope my crank snout isn't too mangled. Is the 79-80 style where the rotor fits around the stator? ...and is it compatible with my crank?

The grooves are normal. The large washer fits in there flush. The thick washer fits against the crank bearing , then the needle bearing, the rubber washer next the starter clutch gear, then the flat washer chamferd side toward the engine. Make sure there is a woodruf key in the crank shaft cone. As you slide the rotor on, turn the clutch gear clock wise while pressing on the rotor. The idea is to make the spring loaded bearings compress the springs thus making room for the for the clutch race. Install the # 8 bolt. Install the idler gear last. The KZ/Z1 rotors are interchangeable I believe up to 80.

You can get a better cover on ebay. Yes it is the right one.

swest, thats all great info, that I already have from the manuals and fiches...so why does the clutch not function when I assemble everything in this manner?

If we don't get our ansers seanbarney45.I have a wrecked 78 ltd with a working starter clutch I'll take apart and compare, but it will take me a couple of weeks before I can get somebody over to drag it out of the corner. (I'm in a wheelchair )
ps I did not have a woodruff key and can't see wear one would have been. How about you?

no sign of woodruff key anywhere to be found...dkoz, I will try to check this out some more with some local Kaw heads that may have answers or parts to compare and get back to this...I am really surprised no one is coming up with some more definitive info, pics, etc. I have done a couple hours worth of searching here too before I even posted...never been very good at the keyword thing I guess...

I am thinking you might be right about damage to the inside rotor. .shit there's nothing really to it but a few pieces. .it's something simple I know it..lol .

Swest there is NO woodruff key on the 1000's, none past the 76 kz900; did away with it and used another larger bolt in the crank snout which leads to people cranking them down to hard and galling the crap out of the thrust bearin aurface (which SHOULD not be tight enough to stop rotation, the only drag at all on the starter clutch is from the rubber boot)

79-80 crankshaft ends are different which stops the interchange of parts between them, but the hub of the flywheel is steel, deforms less and takes a higher torque spec. They didnt really change the design when they omited the woodruff key.

this is same problem as i had some months ago, when bolt it together and is stuck.
my bike is 78 Z1R and prewious owner changed engine .
So my cranck was for woodrof key and the rotor was not? so i was shure this is ok to put together.
No after some inputs from members here i buyed a rotor and key and after that, everything is ok.
There is some mm thickness differents on the rotors.

They all have a woodruff key and they call the rotor the armature. The clutch should move one way only. You may want to brush up the taper on the crank cone a little bit. Do all this without the idler gear in place so your not fighting it. Examine the clutch gear. It has a pressed in race. Is it flush with the edge or pushed out? That might be your problem. If so, you will have to heat it up and push it back flush. I have a old set around here, I'll check it out and get back to you. Yeah it's something stupid. :blush:

Not responding to this woodruff bs again; here's two spare 1000 cranks of mine, a mkii and a standard




If I really felt like polishing this bit of "i know what I am talking about" off the right way I would take the motor on my 78 apart enough to show you, but I'm gonna go beat the snot out of it instead.