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Gasket sealant
- koloj
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- turboking
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2005 Kawasaki mean streak
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- turboking
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2005 Kawasaki mean streak
2000 325 H.P. mcXpress turbo Hayabusa
1979 kz 1000 mk II ATP turbo
1975 Z1 960 cc Mr. Turbo
1975 Z1 1428 big block ATP turbo
1976 Kz900 1103 cc ATP turbo
1985 GS 1150E
1983 GS 1100E
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S
2001 Kawasaki EX 500 Ninja
1972 Honda cb750 (836cc turbo)
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- 650ed
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koloj wrote: What would u reccomend for nice tight seal and easy removal if needed in the future removal
What gaskets are you talking about?
In most cases you should NOT use a gasket sealant. The Kawasaki Service Manual shows which gaskets need sealant and where they need it. Do yourself a huge favor and only use sealant where the manual calls for it. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koloj
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- Z1Driver
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- koloj
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- 650ed
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On the clutch cover, take a look in the Kawasaki Service Manual. Below is a picture that shows the only place on the KZ650 clutch cover that you should apply sealant. That is the area where the rear of the cases meet, and the sealant (shown in blue) is to be applied only to the engine side of the gasket, not the clutch cover side. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- 650ed
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If the idea of putting sealant on a gasket is to prevent a leak, please consider the following. Let's say you have two metal surfaces, i.e. a cylinder head and a valve cover, and there's a gasket that goes between the two. The purpose of the gasket is to prevent oil from leaking between the two metal components. So let's say you put the gasket in there dry (no sealant at all) and bolt the cover to the head squeezing the gasket between the two. Now consider if you could see that cover/gasket/head joint from inside the engine. You would see metal (the head), the inner edge of the gasket, and metal (the valve cover). Now you splash plenty of oil inside that area so the joint is soaked in it. Now looking from inside the engine you see oily metal (head), the oily inner edge of the gasket, and oily metal (the valve cover). If the oil is going to seep between the metal and the gasket will the oil care if it seeps between the head and the gasket or the valve cover and the gasket? No; if it is going to leak it can leak on the head side OR the valve cover side of the gasket. So, IF the only way to prevent a leak was to put sealant on the gasket you would need to put it on both sides. Fortunately, the dry gasket will not leak on either side, so no sealant is needed. This assumes no one has gouged the metal mating surfaces when trying to remove a gasket that some previous owner has glued on because they didn't know sealant was not needed. In that case sealant may be needed but only on the gouged area.
This brings up another point; in the Kawasaki service manual there are a FEW areas where sealant is called for. The best example I can give is a spot on the KZ650 clutch cover gasket. The manual calls for about 1 inch of sealant on a spot on the engine side of the clutch cover gasket where the gasket covers a joint between the lower and upper engine castings. This is required because mating surface has a seam at this engine casing joint which the gasket alone may not seal. This may not be obvious to someone doing this job the first time. So my best advice is to always consult the service manual to see if and where sealant is required rather than just gluing the gaskets on and later having to scrape them off. Also, you'll save money by not needing to replace gaskets as often because the ones put on dry can be more easily reused. The CD recording of this speech is available at the door. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koolaid_kid
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This is true for almost all motorcycles, btw. The gaskets, by and large, are meant to go on dry. If certain areas need a bit of sealant, the Factory Service Manual will point them out explicitly.
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