Bogging, Wont rev

Ok that helps thanks. When I took the carbs apart I never did see the #3. I will look again. I have sparyed threw every passage and everything seems clear. Also thanks for the link for the manual.

I had the same problem when I first bought my 400.
Cleaned the carbs multiple times and it would only rev to about 2500 before bogging.
I started adding a cap full of carb/injector cleaner to each tank of gas.
After the third or fourth tank,whatever was clogged finally let loose and damn near threw me off the back of the bike....

Ok guys well I got it running right. But the only way it ran right is taking the vacuum lines off the carb. The 2 that go on the head side not the one in the middle. They were sucking gas in and air box was filling up. If plug the lines it wont rev up. The ones on the carbs are plugged. Not sure what to do from there.

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php/using-joomla/e...gories/93-kz750-carb

According to the above, the upper tee is a vent that should exit to open air.

The fuel line from the petcock connects to the lower tee.

The original clean air system paraphernalia attached to vacuum nipples which should now be capped/plugged to prevent vacuum leaks.

Would refer to the FSM to confirm that the various carb hose connections are correct.

Absent an overflow circuit, an improperly functioning float valve or other float system issue may allow incoming fuel to keep rising far enough to enter the carb bore.

Does each carb pass the clear-tube test?

Good Fortune!

Is that where you put the tube on the bottom of the bowl and check the float level basically? If so then yes.

CoreyFord wrote: Ok guys well I got it running right. But the only way it ran right is taking the vacuum lines off the carb. The 2 that go on the head side not the one in the middle. They were sucking gas in and air box was filling up. If plug the lines it wont rev up. The ones on the carbs are plugged. Not sure what to do from there.

CoreyFord wrote: Is that where you put the tube on the bottom of the bowl and check the float level basically? If so then yes.

When the carb hoses are properly connected and and vacuum nipples capped/plugged (as they are supposed to be), does gasoline still enter the air box?

Am wondering if possibly the vacuum lines (which should never be left open) are being confused with the vent lines (which should always be left open)?

Good Fortune!

Here is the line and the cap I put on also the connector. I can find where it goes any help.

If you cant see the image its a white wire with black stripe. Comes off a red with white stripe fuse in bewteen. By the battery. Cant figure it out. Looked on diagrams and doesnt really help.

exhuast plugged up(mud dobber nests inside???)???????
that will let it start and idle but not take the throttle and will bog down if you give it any gas.

leon

Gas cap vent possibly clogged? Take the screws out, and see if the vent path is blocked. To check, next time this happens, open up the cap, but don't snap closed.

Clean and inspect all parts of every carb - not just a dunk in a bucket
Clean and inspect all parts of the petcock
Clean and inspect all parts of the exhaust, remove it shake it out, blow air, vacuum
Inspect main electrical ground to frame
Replace points with a new set - don't bother with old points that have not run in over 10 years
adjust timing
inspect/replace broken split cracked brittle hoses
test coils for OHM range
test continuity between coils, plugs and timing
set air mix screw to factory spec (see sticker under seat or owners/shop manual)
replace plugs and plug cap connectors
sync carbs
re adjust air mix screws

My guess the points/timing is way off and/or the air mix screw is super lean (all the way in)