A few questions from a noob Valves 82 KZ750 h3 ltd

This is my first bike. I picked her up almost a year ago and have been riding her nonstop with minimal problems. I knew nothing about bikes and have learned a lot this past year. I have several noob questions so please bear with me.

1. Lately I have started to notice a few things that have gotten me concerned. I have a tapping or ticking noise coming from the cams. Which leads me to believe my valves need adjusting. A few local shops told me it would be no less than 3 weeks before they could get me in, and I was looking at around $1000 parts and labor...

I decided I will do the job myself. I ordered a valve cover gasket and cam cover end plugs from Z1 and will get the correct shims when I know what I need.

2. The PO drilled out the exhaust (did a shit job), and removed the airbox. I am assuming that the carbs were gone through pretty good, because she starts runs without any fuss. I have noticed that with the choke on, the carb will backfire and that I am getting some poping from the exhaust during deceleration. Could this be caused by my valves needing adjusting?

3. I have never had any problems with the exhaust or engine smoking, but I have noticed that I need to top off my oil every other week. Is this normal? Or could this also be remedied when I get the valves done?

I am going to try and post a video of a semi cold start (didn't get the video to work the first few times) if that will help.

4. I have the clymer and original service manual and have been reading them nonstop. I am a little nervous about cracking my engine open, so any helpful tips as to how to approach the valve adjustment would be great.

Thanks in advance.

video link

You can do it. I just did the valves on my bike and its pretty simple. I didn't buy the tool, I just loosened up the cam caps enough to get the shims out. The backfiring could be from those pod filters that are on there. Those cheap filters block the air hole in the carbs. I bought Uni filters and have zero problems. I to have to top off the oil but I figured it was from the leaking gaskets that I just replaced when I did the valves. Go ahead and get the oring for your cam chain tensioner, only couple bucks and then you don't have to worry about it. Mine was hard as plastic when I just replaced it.

I have heard a lot about the uni filters. Any idea where I can pick some up? 54mm right? How are they opposed to K&N?

you can find them on ebay. I believe 54 is correct. I like the foam better than K&N but I guess its just personal preference.

Dennis Kirk filters click here

Just a suggestion.... you could put an airbox back onto the bike. As for the oil loss, I don't think a valve adjustment is going to remedy that. I guess the most likely possibilities are the piston rings or valve stem seals. I would check the spark plugs and go ahead & do a compression test to see what the numbers are. Then redo the test after adding a little oil to the cylinders to see if the pressure rises. If it goes up significantly, it's the rings. Someone else may have better ideas. my disclaimer. hee.

If the smoke goes away in a couple of minutes, I would guess valve stem seals are bad.

And as a follow-up to undiablo's reply, on the compression test, if one or more of them are low & adding the oil does not increase the pressure, then it is the valve stem seals. edit: ie, the oil loss could be the seals if it isn't the piston rings.

Popping on deceleration is an indication of a lean condition.
Are you sure you're not running the bike on choke ( butterflies closed )?
Remember, cam caps are 11 ft/lbs., that's just past finger tight. Strip the
threads and the fun really starts. Also clean and oil the threads.

Beaner242 wrote: You can do it. I just did the valves on my bike and its pretty simple. I didn't buy the tool, I just loosened up the cam caps enough to get the shims out. The backfiring could be from those pod filters that are on there. Those cheap filters block the air hole in the carbs. I bought Uni filters and have zero problems. I to have to top off the oil but I figured it was from the leaking gaskets that I just replaced when I did the valves. Go ahead and get the oring for your cam chain tensioner, only couple bucks and then you don't have to worry about it. Mine was hard as plastic when I just replaced it.

The KZ750/4 is shim under bucket.
Your KZ1000 is shim on top.

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martin_csr wrote: And as a follow-up to undiablo's reply, on the compression test, if one or more of them are low & adding the oil does not increase the pressure, then it is the valve stem seals.

Not the seals, just the valves them selves.

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Nebr_Rex wrote:

Beaner242 wrote: You can do it. I just did the valves on my bike and its pretty simple. I didn't buy the tool, I just loosened up the cam caps enough to get the shims out. The backfiring could be from those pod filters that are on there. Those cheap filters block the air hole in the carbs. I bought Uni filters and have zero problems. I to have to top off the oil but I figured it was from the leaking gaskets that I just replaced when I did the valves. Go ahead and get the oring for your cam chain tensioner, only couple bucks and then you don't have to worry about it. Mine was hard as plastic when I just replaced it.

The KZ750/4 is shim under bucket.
Your KZ1000 is shim on top.

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Thanks Rex, I didn't know that.

Nebr_Rex wrote: Not the seals, just the valves them selves.

The statement was in regards to the oil consumption. I think low compression could be either/or.
At any rate, he's got some checking to do.