A few questions from a noob Valves 82 KZ750 h3 ltd

More
02 Jul 2014 08:31 #638667 by martin_csr

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 13:32 #638699 by dom2570

martin_csr wrote: From the hardware store. :)

haha I should have been more specific, did you use brass hole plugs like they use on furniture or some kind of plumbing plug?

Whip it like a mule!

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 16:26 - 02 Jul 2014 16:26 #638724 by dom2570
I got my shims in from Z1 today. After a few hours of trial and error it got all of the valves in spec except one. the manual said .003 to .007 is in spec. The closest I could get the intake valve on cylinder #4 was .008. I figure it is probably better to be a tad loose than tight.

I had a few valves that were .0035 I am guessing I'm going to have a do another adjustment in the near future, so will I be alright leaving that one valve a little loose?

Whip it like a mule!
Last edit: 02 Jul 2014 16:26 by dom2570.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 17:10 #638727 by PLUMMEN

Beaner242 wrote: You can do it. I just did the valves on my bike and its pretty simple. I didn't buy the tool, I just loosened up the cam caps enough to get the shims out. The backfiring could be from those pod filters that are on there. Those cheap filters block the air hole in the carbs. I bought Uni filters and have zero problems. I to have to top off the oil but I figured it was from the leaking gaskets that I just replaced when I did the valves. Go ahead and get the oring for your cam chain tensioner, only couple bucks and then you don't have to worry about it. Mine was hard as plastic when I just replaced it.

His shims are under the buckets instead of on top like yours,He will need to pull the cams if he actually has to change any shims. ;)

Still recovering,some days are better than others.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 17:14 #638728 by PLUMMEN

martin_csr wrote: And as a follow-up to undiablo's reply, on the compression test, if one or more of them are low & adding the oil does not increase the pressure, then it is the valve stem seals. edit: ie, the oil loss could be the seals if it isn't the piston rings.

It would be the valves/seats not sealing,not the seals.
If it puffs a little smoke when you fire it up and goes away it could be the guide seals leaking a little oil. :)

Still recovering,some days are better than others.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 19:06 #638752 by martin_csr

PLUMMEN wrote: It would be the valves/seats not sealing,not the seals.
If it puffs a little smoke when you fire it up and goes away it could be the guide seals leaking a little oil. :)

You're saying the oil loss is because the valves are not seating?

dom2570, I used 1/4" threaded brass plugs --- I guess they're plumbing plugs.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
02 Jul 2014 19:30 - 03 Jul 2014 06:10 #638759 by Patton

PLUMMEN wrote:

martin_csr wrote: And as a follow-up to undiablo's reply, on the compression test, if one or more of them are low & adding the oil does not increase the pressure, then it is the valve stem seals. edit: ie, the oil loss could be the seals if it isn't the piston rings.

It would be the valves/seats not sealing,not the seals.
If it puffs a little smoke when you fire it up and goes away it could be the guide seals leaking a little oil. :)

I think PLUMMEN is saying that if adding oil doesn't increase the compression test pressure, the insufficient pressure is likely due to valve leakage (not to condition of the seals), And that initial smoking at start-up that goes away indicates poor condition of seals as opposed to a bad oil ring which keeps on smoking.

Compression may be within specs despite leaking valve stem seals.
And conversely, compression may be too low with perfect valve stem seals.

There are two separate unrelated concepts that have been lumped together in the discussion:

(1) Low compression testing -- might or might not be raised by adding oil to the combustion chamber. If added oil increases compression, the valves are likely seating okay, If added oil doesn't increases compression, the valves are likely leaking (i.e., failing to fully seal -- which is unrelated to the seals on the valve stems);

(2) Oil loss (oil burning) -- might result from poor condition of seal on the valve stem and/or an issue with the piston's oil ring -- which is unrelated to compression testing, except that low compression test results might indicate that the piston's compression rings are worn and by inference that the piston's oil ring may be similarly worn.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Last edit: 03 Jul 2014 06:10 by Patton.
The following user(s) said Thank You: PLUMMEN

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
03 Jul 2014 06:03 #638793 by martin_csr
The original comment was in regards to oil loss and using a compression test to try to figure out if it's the rings or the seals, which is moot here since the po figured out. :)

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
11 Jul 2014 19:45 #639778 by sask49
I am looking for an air box duct for my 1982 750 CSR KZ750
Z1 and Ron Ayres do not have one. My bike is laid up because of this and summer is soon fading in Mid-West Canada. Any leads?

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum