1075 Cylinder head reinstallation question

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/593915-ru...is-a-cause-for-alarm
In this thread, I discovered that the cam chain tensioner rubber wheel was coming apart in my engine. I pulled the cylinder head to remove the offending part and have since ordered new idlers and a tensioner. The bike is a 1977 KZ1000 bored to 1075. Every other engine that I've rebuilt so far has been a full rebuild, so I am not too sure what to do with this one.... The bores really don't need any attention, as the 1075 kit doesn't have many miles on it. SO I really don't want to pull the cylinders. However, it seems as though it would be exceedingly difficult to get the cylinder deck nicely surfaced without getting a bunch of crap in the cylinders. There is a lot of graphite stuck to it from the head gasket. I'm hoping someone can give me some advice on the best way to clean it without pulling the cylinders,( if this is even feasible) OR should I just be pulling the cylinders and re-ringing the pistons, etc. so that I can have it resurfaced at a shop? I am not trying to be a total cheap-ass, but the amount of money I've already spent on parts is pretty ugly, so I don't really want to buy a new set of rings, etc. If it's not necessary.

the cam chain rubber tension wheel needs the cylinder pulled to replace it. If this is in your plans, you will have to pull cylinder.

You can pull the cylinder block and reinstall
with out new ring's or a rehone.

Myself I think if you pull the head you unseat the base gasket
and will have oil leak's down the road so I would replace the head and base gasket's.

I hadn't planned on replacing the rubber wheel under the block, as it looks good. I was pondering what Dave is saying though, about the base gasket possibly leaking down the road if I don't replace it....that's one of the things I'm afraid of. This is the first time I've run into a situation like this, so I appreciate the feedback!

rule of thumb on these is ..... if the head comes off, replace the cylinder base gasket.

Sorry, but if you get an oil leak.....you are going to be pissed.

Sorry, but if you get an oil leak.....you are going to be pissed

That is SO very true. Ok, well I think it's time to face the music...Sucks how something stupid requires so much work! Such is life.

What's a base gasket cost 10 buck's now or how much when it leak's.

It wasn't the cost of the gasket I was dreading, but the extra work involved. Anyhow, I pulled the cylinders, and it looks as though it probably was already leaking at the back under the chain tensioner. I think the oil was running across the top of the case, and down through the hole that goes down towards the transmission cover. I had assumed that it was leaking oil from one of the seals in the trans. cover. There is a lot of debris around the base that I didn't see when I pulled the cylinders, which is going to be a bitch to keep out of the crankcase when I go to clean the deck up. I am starting to think that I should pull the engine out completely, split the cases, and start from scratch.

...I'm really starting to wonder how many times things can go from bad to worse. :sick:

Just drop the oil pan. That's where all the rubber is from the bad roller anyway. What looks like a possible base gasket leak near the cam chain on the back side may well be the oil pipe O rings leaking or the oil sending unit itself.

Hi Larry- The oil pan is off. Is there anything I can use to flush that part of the crankcase of debris that won't hurt the bearings? Just seems inevitable that some crap fell down onto the crank when I pulled the cylinders. Next time I do this I'll know to wash off the engine VERY well first. It looked very clean & it didn't even cross my mind. I am quite sure both of the parts you mention have been leaking oil as well. (There is an oil cooler installed, so it has the aftermarket fittings there) Checking over everything, it seems like all of these parts, as well as the hoses, were not tightened down much at all, and they are all seeping from everywhere. It's very strange how many loosely tightened bolts I have run into thus far...

Are you replacing the cam chain while you are in there? For what it's worth, If you are doing the rest of the chain system components, I have been told that it is prudent to replace the chain as well. This requires splitting the cases (unless you go the master link route). All of my cam chain rubber stuff looked very much like yours when I got into mine...that was an expensive parts package, but it will feel much better once it's put back together and spinning around. Good luck with your build.