Ignition Problem?

Thanks for that photo. Also I have a manual. But yeah the gasoline free flows no matter what position the petcock is in. I find it weird that it doesn't have an off position. Even in the prime position, it flows.

If fuel flows when in the ON or RES position you need to replace it. It is worn out.
Do not attempt a rebuild kit; they seldom work.

Lol that's funny cause I just rebuilt it. So I need a new Petcock for sure then cause it's flowing.

Yup.

Thanks Koolaid_Kid
I guess I need to buy a new Petcock and also take apart those carbs and makes sure everything checks out there.
Thanks guys for all the feedback, it really helps and gave me some focus.

The manual should have better pictures along with detailed instructions about the clear tube test and about the vacuum operated petcock.

For example, I believe -- but am not positive -- that the carbs at hand are CV style without overflows (the pic I posted) . But some CV carbs do have overflows. And it's important to use the drain function -- not the overflow function -- incident to the clear tube test. Some CV carbs have overflows that become drains when the drain screw is slightly loosened.

The manual should provide more exact information.

Good Fortune!

Alright thanks Patton, I'll look into it.

Kenneth Brisco wrote: Thanks Koolaid_Kid
I guess I need to buy a new Petcock and also take apart those carbs and makes sure everything checks out there.
Thanks guys for all the feedback, it really helps and gave me some focus.

You may want to double/triple check that you rebuilt the petcock correctly, before purchasing another one.
A rebuild kit should work properly, unless the seal is prevented by a defective internal part, or the gasket was not put in facing the correct way. I'd first check the back of the petcock lever, to make sure it is flat and smooth with no grooves or pits in the metal surface, and the internal seal areas are completely clean of dirt and grime.
It's always better to measure twice, or even three times.

It's not completely flat, I remember from when I rebuilt it. But yeah defiantly will check again before I buy a new one.
Any suggestions on where to get a new petcock for it?

Kenneth Brisco wrote: It's not completely flat, I remember from when I rebuilt it. But yeah defiantly will check again before I buy a new one.
Any suggestions on where to get a new petcock for it?

If not flat, it won't seal...
Considering you did the job yourself, then you already know what precautions to take while working with gasoline...
Once you have the lever off the petcock, flatten the back of it using a piece of sandpaper taped down on a flat work-surface. The material is soft, so it won't take a ton of effort, but you must keep it flat against the sandpaper while stroking it back and forth across it. Keep checking your progress as you go, and stop when flat.
Finish off with a fine grit like 400 to get smooth, then very-lightly round over any sharp edges.

Or search (kz1000p petcock) ebay, for another one.

Okay thanks, I'll give it a go!

Kenneth Brisco wrote: I can look at them.
The blocked pilot jet would explain the #4 cylinder in theory right? When I pulled that plug it had fuel though that's what's weird.
Can you explain why it might be a blocked pilot jet for me Oldzed?

The fuel must mix with air to atomise properly.
If you are getting neat fuel it will not burn well , hence the wet plug and not firing well.
The carb draws the fuel into the carb throat (Venturi effect)
A blocked jet will not draw enough fuel to run ,just enough to wet the plug.

The reason I asked which carb you had the fuel tap connected to was for 2 reasons.
1 The diaphragm that opens the fuel supply can be letting in air
2 Fuel can travel down this tube and flood the carb .

Regards