Frozen clutch cable

This bike hasn't been ridden in years and the first project is getting the clutch cable to engage and snap back freely. I finally got it unfrozen but it doesn't move freely. Is this part supposed to be spring loaded? Any insight would be much appreciated.

Britome,
The part in the pic when pulled by the clutch cable pushes the clutch rod that then pushes against the clutch plates. Behind that part is a rod with a ball bearing that goes thru the engine. The spring that you see there should be replaced, it helps ensure that the clutch cable is tight but is most likely not causing the sticking. If you take the two screws out you should be able to pull out the cluch rod. I would guess that the rod is actually stuck or the clutch plates. Watch out and don't lose the ball bearing when the rod is removed. If when you take out the rod and it does not appear to be the part stuck then you will have to look at the clucth plates on the other side of the motor and make sure they are not stuck.
I hope this helps.
Jim

Thx so much. Unfortunately, I lost a ball bearing! Now I know. My two screws are also frozen. Liquid wrench isn't helping yet. I'll keep working it.

Regardless of anything else you do, your clutch will not function properly without the ball bearing. Ed

Did you pull out the clutch push rod? If you didn't remove the rod, your bearing is still there. Yes. Do not try to operate your clutch without it.

You guys are awesome. Thank you!

I have lost a total of two of what looks like 9 bearings. Seems like they are standard 1/8" steel bearings. I'll order more. I think the bearings had seized which is why it was impossible to pull the clutch lever. I'll order that spring as well.

I'm still feeling my way around this bike. I assume the rod is not the assembly I've been messing with so it is still inside the bike.

I think JimB is a little confused. The part you show is bolted (with two screws) to the sprocket cover, correct? The rod would fit in that hole that you see in the middle, and the ball bearing would be at the opposite end of that rod. The spring is fine, it just keeps the cable from slipping out of the hole it's in.
The ball bearing you lost were part of the release assembly, and need to be greased, and when you reassemble the clutch release you need to make sure it's clocked to the right position, or it may not have enough travel to release the clutch.
Go to kawasaki.com, or Ron Ayers, or Bike Bandit, or somewhere else and look at the illustrated parts breakdowns, they help you to see how it's assembled and in what order.

I don't know what model the op has, but if a guy has the bike on the side stand, then pulls out the clutch push rod, can the steel ball roll out? Or is it kinda captured, requiring more disassembly to loose the thing? Or does it depend upon which KZ it is? Thanks.

I've got a 78 sr650. Strangely enough, there is nothing in the shop manual that talks about this release mechanism. Odd. The coaching on making sure it is "clocked to the right is very helpful.

I was just going to ask the best place to order parts. Thx for the info.

Have had old dirt bikes many many years back with stuck clutch plates. Push started them and got them up to operating temps and work the clutch a little and they worked fine after that. Betting the clutch plates are stuck.

Britome wrote: I've got a 78 sr650. Strangely enough, there is nothing in the shop manual that talks about this release mechanism. Odd. The coaching on making sure it is "clocked to the right is very helpful.

I was just going to ask the best place to order parts. Thx for the info.

What shop manual do you have? I ask because if it is the Kawasaki Service Manual take a look under Disassembly - Engine Installed. There it shows how to disassemble and re-assemble the clutch release. Ed

I've got the kz650 B1 '77 service manual. I'll check it out. The rod and bearing are still where they started.

When I took out the cover, it was obvious that it was with all the mechanicals that the cable was attached to. The clutch was permanently engaged until I took the mechanism off. The arm wasn't moving back into place after the cable pulling it forward.