Big Block KZ heat

1. Paint the block black ,it will run up to 50 degrees cooler.
2. Dry block the cases and run the cam feeds through a dedicated top end cooler ( mount the cooler with top entry oil fittings for extra oil capacity )
3. Use a stainless exhaust as it flows faster than normal steel, greatly improves cylinder scavenging thus allowing more cool charge into the cylinder and radiates less heat.
4. If overheating is still a problem on the move then fabricate and fit some sort of air scoop to channel air onto the cylinder.

zed1015 wrote: 3. Use a stainless exhaust as it flows faster than normal steel, greatly improves cylinder scavenging thus allowing more cool charge into the cylinder and radiates less heat.

I don't understand how this is possible, can you explain?

DFIGPZ wrote: No matter what you do a big block on the street is going to create heat.

And again, I don't understand. Where is this additional heat coming from? HP + heat, but the additional hp is only being generated at wide open throttle. Maybe the observed heat is greater because of the thinner cylinder walls ?

Two factors:

1. The big blocks don't have the open center section for cooling air as stated above with the aftermarket big blocks. With modded stock blocks, less aluminum (the heat sink....)is removed and replaced with big liners....

2. No matter how you slice it, more displacement requires fuel to go with the extra air they are pulling in from idle all the way to WFO. More air, more fuel, more energy, more heat..... Then at idle sitting still, the amount of air exchanging heat transfer is reduced. Got to feed the cubes. Think about it this very basic way. Same for same your 1327 is 1.47 times larger than the original 903. That is 1.47 times the fuel energy you need to shed the heat from. Not exact, but not doing the math on this one... Too many factors involved! Lol

Cory

steell wrote:

zed1015 wrote: 3. Use a stainless exhaust as it flows faster than normal steel, greatly improves cylinder scavenging thus allowing more cool charge into the cylinder and radiates less heat.

I don't understand how this is possible, can you explain?

Exhaust gasses flow faster the hotter they are which is the main reason for wrapping a stock steel exhaust in race application.
Stainless steel has a lower coefficient of thermal conductivity than mild steel so retaining more heat inside the exhaust and transmitting it to the outlet, this retained heat increases gas velocity and cylinder scavenging which in turn allows more fuel into the cylinder.
Mild steel conducts approx 219% more heat per foot than stainless which means that stainless also radiates less heat in to the surrounding air and components.

Then titanium ought to be the way to go, it's heat transfer rate is terrible. Ceramic coated steel headers ought to work well also.