KZ 1000 cafe build recommendation needed

cross wrote: Valve job as in remove the head, inspect seats and guides, valve laping, etc.
Is this true? It seems a bit excessive.
What should I be expecting to do to this engine with this many miles?
Other then oil change and tune up.

Thanks

My 1977 KZ650 has about 56k miles and has never had the head pulled or any engine work done other than normal tune ups (points, plugs, oil changes, etc.) Was the guy who said the head had to be pulled every 25k miles trying to sell you a Suzuki? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Ed

So I guess it will need full head job.
I wonder how much does that cost.

if the thing makes compression and doesn't smoke or rattle.

then don't worry about it,and ride it until it smokes or rattles :whistle: .

seriously,
a compression test when you get it and one periodically after wards will keep you in touch with the condition of the engine.

100 lbs of compression is time to go through the engine.

140lbs + is good to go.

keep us posted.
hth,

leon

What he said - ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

cross wrote: So I guess it will need full head job.
I wonder how much does that cost.

??? What leads you to believe that? You said it runs great and doesn't make weird noises. To me, that's a good thing, so why rip apart an engine that's working well? :blink: Ed

Would adjust valve clearances , and then do a leak down test, which gives a good indication of engine condition.


A leak down test injects air pressure through the spark plug hole to pressurize the combustion chamber.

Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.

May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air. Or just use a portable compressed air tank.

Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).

Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).

Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).

A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.

A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).

Good Fortune!

Thank you guys for all the info.
The bike does run well and supposedly had valves adjusted and carbs sync'd recently.
I'm well familiar with engine diagnostics, ( i just did all that on my '90 bmw 325i with 322k miles on it, it still has good compression so i'll be replacing head gasket this week)
Asking price for this bike is $2950 and i'm in negotiations to get it for less.
How much do you guys think its worth?
'05 KZ1000P, Just under 60k miles.

Thanks
Sasha