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valve clearance
- dady619
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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Rings do have a gap where the ends meet, so a light liquid would run through those.dady619 wrote: i just dropped the oil and filled 3 and 4 bore with fuel and it is now dripping out my sump plug rings stuffed ????
When you did the compression test, was it a warm or cold engine? Either way you need to hold the throttle open when testing. You can add a bit of oil to the cylinder and then do the compression test. It will increase with the oil, then as it to is pushed out of the cylinder, the pressure will drop again.
Best to do a Leak Down Test. This is putting the cylinder at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke, and adding compressed air to the cylinder. Using a Cylinder leak Down Tester, gauge/ gauges for the Air Pressure control, you will see what percentage the cylinder holds, and then be able to listen to air escaping to find a bad Valve/ Rings/ Head Gasket.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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Those #'s should be Ok. Always check though.dady619 wrote: im stumped don't no if i have a ring prob or valve prob intake was all .oo3 and ex .004
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- Patton
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Can perform a poor man's leak down test by introducing compressed air into a spark plug hole and listening to where it escapes from the combustion clamber. This may be done at TDC or any other cam positions where both valves are fully closed. Top dead center (TDC) is when the piston is at its highest position. An easy way to tell TDC is by alignment of the T mark with the case mark when viewed through the timing window.
May introduce a spurt of compressed air by using a rubber cone-tip blow gun (rubber air nozzle) held into the spark plug hole. And of course keep holding it in position to keep air from coming back out the spark plug hole while listening for escaping air at other places. The air compressor should not be running while listening because the noise will likely drown out any sound of escaping air.
Air heard escaping from exhaust port indicates exhaust valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).
Air heard escaping from carb intake indicates intake valve not fully closing (perhaps too tight clearance or damaged valve or valve seat).
Air heard escaping from crankcase breather indicates loss of compression past rings into crankcase (perhaps worn piston rings or cylinders).
Air heard escaping from head gasket area indicates indicates loss of compression past head gasket (perhaps due to a blown head gasket).
A leaking valve may sometimes be resolved by adjusting the clearance to within specs.
A leaking head gasket may sometimes be resolved by torquing the head fasteners when the engine is stone cold (such as after sitting overnight).
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- 650ed
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dady619 wrote: i just dropped the oil and filled 3 and 4 bore with fuel and it is now dripping out my sump plug rings stuffed ????
Are you serious - you really did that to your engine? :blink: Yikes!
Of course the fuel will run out. If there was an absolute metal to metal seal with no ring gap the pistons would not be able to move up and down in the cylinders.
The bigger question is, what is the affect of flushing the bottom end of your engine (bearings, etc.) with gasoline and how much gasoline is now lurking in the nooks and crannies of the engine? Gasoline will wash oil off parts better than anything known to man, so pouring that much gasoline through the engine will have removed the lubricating oil from anything it came in contact with including bearings, gears, bushings, etc. If it was mine, I would refill the engine with oil, remove the spark plugs and crank the engine many times a few seconds at a time, drain that contaminated oil, and repeat the procedure again before ever trying to start the engine.
Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- bountyhunter
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650ed wrote: The bigger question is, what is the affect of flushing the bottom end of your engine (bearings, etc.) with gasoline and how much gasoline is now lurking in the nooks and crannies of the engine?
+1
I recommend a complete drain and then use the kick starter to pump the internal oil out. Then refill with oil and run until warm then drain again.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- dady619
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- Patton
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Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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