DFI problem

Jompa wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Jompa wrote: I put a "new" fuel regulator on tonight and took a test ride.
And, Yeah, the 11 sec bike is back !!!

Great!
Was that an adjustable regulator?
What pressure spec do you have dialed in now?

Runing with an original regulator and with the pressure I measured two postings ago.

Ok, so you replaced the plugs and plug wires (coils?), and you fixed the TPS?

So the TPS wire was the problem? Or a combination of both?

Just curious.

steell wrote:

Jompa wrote:

Motor Head wrote:

Jompa wrote: I put a "new" fuel regulator on tonight and took a test ride.
And, Yeah, the 11 sec bike is back !!!

Great!
Was that an adjustable regulator?
What pressure spec do you have dialed in now?

Runing with an original regulator and with the pressure I measured two postings ago.

Ok, so you replaced the plugs and plug wires (coils?), and you fixed the TPS?

So the TPS wire was the problem? Or a combination of both?

Just curious.

Just replaced the plug caps, not coils ad wires. Tried Champion N7YC, but the plugs was much to hot.
TPS wire fixed with new contacts ( inside the push/pull contact)
I think the regulator was the biggest problem, it lost pressure when I gave full throttle, instead over raising pressure.

Four months ago, I wrote "11sec bike is back".
Not completely true, I still had problems reaching reddline in third gear.
The dfi system is measured and tested several times, according to the Clymer manual and advises from you folks, and I,m quite sure the dfi works ok.

I have another theory........
If the valves have very little clearance, lets say less than 0.05mm, is it possible that the motor loose compression when getting hot very quick ?
How much will the exhaust valves ekspand in length during a quick warm-up ?
I made an overhaul on the valve seats and put in new inlet valves three years ago. Last time I checked the valves was in 2012.

Absolutely recheck your valves, also verify that you have full voltage at the ignition coils primary side, or your spark will be weak. Only one set of resistors in the secondary loop, so just the caps and not "R" plugs.
Good luck.

Finally, somethings happens again.
I lifted the tank off yesterday and checked coils primary and secondary loop.
2,8 k.ohm at prim and 11 k.ohm at sec, on both.
Tested plug cables today and found from 7 to 10 k.ohm on three of them, and 24 k.ohm on the last.
And that without the plug cap.

Will a bad plug cable make bad performanse on the motor ?
If it does, how and why ?

A bad plug wire (to much resistance, not open) will reduce power to the plug. so when it needs that power to jump the gap at high throttle settings, the power is not there and it will misfire.

Finally, the 11-sec bike is back.
After re-adjusting the valves, changed plug cables , changed to non-R plugs the bike would still not reach redline.
I was quite sure there was something with the gas, and that the engine got to little at high rpm.
But when my new plugs went black after a few kilometers, I had to think different. :blush:

Took a ride and got real working temp, adjusted the tps to a much leaner mix, ..... and something happened.
One more test, and the red warning lamp came on. And rhe dfi lamp....
The code said engine temp sensor, and the cable shoe was loose.
New cable shoe on rhe sensor, one mpre fine adjusting on the tps.
As fine as ot could be done by "ear methode" and out on the road.

Great push from 6000 rpm and "eksplosion" from 8000 to redline and over.......
Again an again[map] :evil: :evil:

Yessss, the 11-sec bike is really back