DFI problem

Yes that is more than likely your problem. You have doubled the resistors in the secondary loop, causing weak spark which is causing your running problem. Definitely replace the plugs with the correct ones. I'd also replace both the plug wires and caps, if not the coils too. Are those the original coils? Installing a new set would be best, Accel or Dyna seems to be the popular choices.

Motor Head, I agree with you on principle. I ran the Dyna coils and wires on my 83 GS1100E, and I have the Accel coils and wires on my GPz. Great combos, both, with a hotter spark than stock.
However, for starters I suggest Jompa get his OEM coils functioning properly, then make the decision on whether to step up to aftermarket coils.

Also check the fuel filter isn't blocked and is the right way up.

+1, break out the ohm meter and check resistance at the coil primary, secondary and power to the coil.

Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different). The 550’s,650’s & 750’s are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.


The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

I`ve made som testing tonight.
Fuel regulator gave 2,5 bar without vakum hose at idle.
With the hose on, it made 2,3 bar at idle and 2,1 - 2,2 at about 4000 rpm.
I have 4 of the rgulators and checked 3 of them. Put on one which gave 2,2 at idle and about 2,4 at
4000. And 2,6 without vacum hose.
4,5 bar with the outlet hose from the fuel pump blocked.

One of the wires at the TPS was half broken, broke when I pulled it just a bit.
I measured the tensions from TPS, engine temp sensor and air temp sensor.
The two temp sensor seems to be ok.
Highest voltage from TPS is 5,05 V and lowest is 1,02 V.

Manual says 5,2 - 0,5 volts, is the highest and lowest tensin important ?
Do it has to be 5,2 and 0,5 or is it the absolut limits ?

Havent tested the bike on the road yet, see tomorrow.

Usually if you can get about .9v or so at closed throttle, that seems pretty close. Just a bit richer on the MAP as the throttle moves. You can install an adjustable pressure regulator to set the fuel pressure either richer of leaner. Just a few PSI can make a difference.

Motor Head wrote: Usually if you can get about .9v or so at closed throttle, that seems pretty close. Just a bit richer on the MAP as the throttle moves. You can install an adjustable pressure regulator to set the fuel pressure either richer of leaner. Just a few PSI can make a difference.

No, the voltage is dropping when throttle opening increase.
5 V + at idle, 1 V or lower at wide open throttle.
And engine is usually running rich according to the black plugs :huh:

I believe a 3 wire TPS will be like I said. On the signal return wire, close to 1v at Idle/ closed, and near 5v open. Do you have the signal return wire or the VREF (Voltage Reference wire) which is 5v? You need to measure between the Signal wire and the Ground wire. Do you have the wiring Diagram for the DFI system? It will show the pin out, which wire goes from the TPS to the Computer and on which terminals. With it unplugged at the TPS you should find the VREF 5v wire easily. The ground won't vary, only the return wire will change.
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&...vm=bv.52109249,d.cGE

I put a "new" fuel regulator on tonight and took a test ride.
And, Yeah, the 11 sec bike is back !!!

Jompa wrote: I put a "new" fuel regulator on tonight and took a test ride.
And, Yeah, the 11 sec bike is back !!!

Great!
Was that an adjustable regulator?
What pressure spec do you have dialed in now?

Motor Head wrote:

Jompa wrote: I put a "new" fuel regulator on tonight and took a test ride.
And, Yeah, the 11 sec bike is back !!!

Great!
Was that an adjustable regulator?
What pressure spec do you have dialed in now?

Runing with an original regulator and with the pressure I measured two postings ago.