DFI problem

I have a really seriuos problem on my 83 GPz 1100 A1.
The big problem wich keep me awake night after night is that the bike is'nt reaching redline from 3th gear and up.
If I do a"drag" from zero it goes rigt to the redline in first gear, easy to the top in second, and the shit starts in third gear.

Engine loose power from above 6000 rpm, sometimes it get power back at 8000 for a short second.
And top speed, 110 mph..... :blush: :blush:

Air filter is new, fuel filter the same, compression is 120, 125,125,130 psi, all signals from tps,engine and air temp senors is within specs.
Iv have turned the tps from rich to lean a hundred times, and always end at about middle position.

And yes, fuel pressure is 33 psi at idle with the vacuum tube on and 36 without.

At normal cruising speed it works normal, but I want a bike wich functions like it was made to do.
No longer a 11sec bike

What is wrong ?

Are the injectors putting out what they are supposed to or are they partially clogged?
Or is the signal from the computer not up to spec? Short? Frayed wire? Inside the black box?
Have any of that magic electrical smoke?


.

Nebr_Rex wrote: Are the injectors putting out what they are supposed to or are they partially clogged?
Or is the signal from the computer not up to spec? Short? Frayed wire? Inside the black box?
Have any of that magic electrical smoke?


.

I haven't cleaned the injectors, maybe I should have it done....
No frayed or damaged wire, as I can see, and definately no magic electric smoke.

I believe there is a set of injector tests around here..In the archives?

Put a longer hose on your fuel gauge. Get it where you can look at it. The pump could be down on Volume. If you Dead Head the pump, it should make over 90 psi easily (block off the return). The Tank still has to vent to allow gas into the system, also there are screens at the petcock, fuel injectors, and I believe the Fuel Pump. Any of those could restrict flow. Also check you ignition for both proper voltage to the coils, voltage to the EFI computer, Ignition Timing for the advance curve.
Make sure your plugs are Non Resistor, check coils for spark that will jump the gap specified in the service manual- bright and blue.
Those compression #'s you posted, was that warmed up with the throttle held open, battery fully charged? Did you add a bit of oil to see if it will come up any?

Motor Head pretty much covered it. A friend with a turbo Busa had a similar problem, bike would not redline in the top 3 gears. He put an AFR gauge on it and discovered the motor was going rich and that was keeping it from pulling to redline.

Could be ignition as well.

Motor Head wrote: Put a longer hose on your fuel gauge. Get it where you can look at it. The pump could be down on Volume. If you Dead Head the pump, it should make over 90 psi easily (block off the return). The Tank still has to vent to allow gas into the system, also there are screens at the petcock, fuel injectors, and I believe the Fuel Pump. Any of those could restrict flow. Also check you ignition for both proper voltage to the coils, voltage to the EFI computer, Ignition Timing for the advance curve.
Make sure your plugs are Non Resistor, check coils for spark that will jump the gap specified in the service manual- bright and blue.
Those compression #'s you posted, was that warmed up with the throttle held open, battery fully charged? Did you add a bit of oil to see if it will come up any?

Ok, then I have made a plan.
Start tomorrow and check the fuel system from the tank, fuelcock, filter, pump pressure, rgulator to the backvalve.
What excactly is the purpose of the backvalve ?
Is it working with the regulator or does it nothing than prevent the gas from flowing back when ignition is off ?

And what is wrong with "R" plugs ? I,m using BR8ES.

I' ll check the electronics after I,ve gone throu the "mechanic" part of the fuel system.

Anyoene who knows where to get a free download of the workshop manual ?
I already have the servicemanual, and a "manual" from Clymer.

There is nothing wrong with "R" plugs as long as you are not running stock caps or resistor wires. In other words, if you want to run "R" plugs then run plain rubber caps and copper wires.

Check the return valve to the tank, on most Kawasaki DFI's, it's on the bottom right side,connected to the fuel pressure regulator.

koolaid_kid wrote: There is nothing wrong with "R" plugs as long as you are not running stock caps or resistor wires. In other words, if you want to run "R" plugs then run plain rubber caps and copper wires.

Shit :blink: :blink:

I have the old rubber caps on nr 2 and 3, and NGK caps on nr 1 and 4. Original coils and wires.
So I have double resistors on two of the plugs ??

Jompa wrote:

koolaid_kid wrote: There is nothing wrong with "R" plugs as long as you are not running stock caps or resistor wires. In other words, if you want to run "R" plugs then run plain rubber caps and copper wires.

Shit :blink: :blink:

I have the old rubber caps on nr 2 and 3, and NGK caps on nr 1 and 4. Original coils and wires.
So I have double resistors on two of the plugs ??

Yup.

koolaid_kid wrote:

Jompa wrote:

koolaid_kid wrote: There is nothing wrong with "R" plugs as long as you are not running stock caps or resistor wires. In other words, if you want to run "R" plugs then run plain rubber caps and copper wires.

Shit :blink: :blink:

I have the old rubber caps on nr 2 and 3, and NGK caps on nr 1 and 4. Original coils and wires.
So I have double resistors on two of the plugs ??

Yup.

Ok, a resistor equippet cap and a R plug gives a weaker spark, right ?
Is it possoble that the spark will get weaker and maybe lost at higher rpm ?
I'll buy new caps and plugs today, anyway.