Radical streetable engine size

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

31 Aug 2013 09:17 - 31 Aug 2013 09:28
#604113
That 1327 was converted this past winter to button start because hauling the battery cart around was a pain. It's using an OEM Kaw starter with a good battery. No alternator rotor. Modified starter clutch assembly. Loosing the extra crankcase vent was a concern though so far, no issues.

Cranking pressures are relative to cams and cam timing selected.
Last edit: 31 Aug 2013 09:28 by crh.

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

31 Aug 2013 09:38 - 31 Aug 2013 09:45
#604114
geerbangr wrote: So is it better to invest the money in the KZ head because I already own one or get a J head and throw money at it What's the best bang for your buck. How about compression ratio, I don't see many talking about that. Ultra 94 Sunoco gas is about the best pump gas around. Where compression ratio do you start running into detonation issue with the KZ ? How about getting them started ?? Stock starter hold up to a 1327 or a 1428 ?

The 1327 I mentioned had a C&W KZ head on it previously with 36/30 and 8x cams. It ran a best of 6.0 with that head and usually 6.2 - 6.3. The J head was ported by a guy I know and it flows 95. I could fix that to bring it up another 10CFM with no problem.

Can you use your 900 head? Yes you can. Put 38/31 valves in it. Will it be optimal for a 1428? Not in my opinion but that's just me. Others will disagree :)

If you buy a big block kit from APE with big cams you'll be wanting to keep an eye on your valve springs too. . APE says 75 drag strip passes and it's time to swap them out. I use Kibble Whites for anything over 425 lift.

There are pitfalls to doing what you propose. Do things wrong and you best be prepared for disappointment and money pissed away.
Last edit: 31 Aug 2013 09:45 by crh.

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

31 Aug 2013 10:47
#604124
crh wrote:
geerbangr wrote: So is it better to invest the money in the KZ head because I already own one or get a J head and throw money at it What's the best bang for your buck. How about compression ratio, I don't see many talking about that. Ultra 94 Sunoco gas is about the best pump gas around. Where compression ratio do you start running into detonation issue with the KZ ? How about getting them started ?? Stock starter hold up to a 1327 or a 1428 ?

The 1327 I mentioned had a C&W KZ head on it previously with 36/30 and 8x cams. It ran a best of 6.0 with that head and usually 6.2 - 6.3. The J head was ported by a guy I know and it flows 95. I could fix that to bring it up another 10CFM with no problem.

Can you use your 900 head? Yes you can. Put 38/31 valves in it. Will it be optimal for a 1428? Not in my opinion but that's just me. Others will disagree :)

If you buy a big block kit from APE with big cams you'll be wanting to keep an eye on your valve springs too. . APE says 75 drag strip passes and it's time to swap them out. I use Kibble Whites for anything over 425 lift.

There are pitfalls to doing what you propose. Do things wrong and you best be prepared for disappointment and money pissed away.
Agreed use a "J" head you will be far ahead of the game Larry check your email.
1984 750 Turbo

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

31 Aug 2013 11:06
#604126
I guess I'm a realist :ohmy: and I know I'm opening a big ole can of worms here :evil: I don't mean to crush anyone's toes.... :lol: but IMO 1075 cc for the street ....no case boring.... big studs all the stuff your told you need to have and do.blah, blah, blah :dry: ......I'm not selling parts or work...... :pinch: make a cool rider kz that you can ride all the time ..... and it may be blasphemy to a lot here but invest your money in newer technology (2nd bike)....... I love old kawasaki z series bikes, cool looking, nostalgic..... but at the same time parts are becoming harder to locate at a decent price.....I already own a 1428 big dry blocked turbo Z ,not ridden much as it gets too hot.... :huh: but if I want fast , I go to another of my street bikes, my pump premium (93 octane) fueled (14 psi boost) 325 h.p dynoed intercooled mcxpress turbo hayabusa. ( best e.t. 8.17 @ 173 in the quarter with 14 psi boost ) there is no comparison between the 1428 Z and the stock bore 1300 hayabusa turbo....... I wish you could out do newer technology , I'm a realist... ;) and like I said IMO :dry: :side: please, don't shoot the messenger/NO haters....:whistle:

[IMG
2005 Kawasaki mean streak
2000 325 H.P. mcXpress turbo Hayabusa
1979 kz 1000 mk II ATP turbo
1975 Z1 960 cc Mr. Turbo
1975 Z1 1428 big block ATP turbo
1976 Kz900 1103 cc ATP turbo
1985 GS 1150E
1983 GS 1100E
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S
2001 Kawasaki EX 500 Ninja
1972 Honda cb750 (836cc turbo)

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

31 Aug 2013 12:13 - 31 Aug 2013 12:14
#604131
1075 is good. But after i rode mine for a couple years i wanted more power. I love the power from my 1327. It hasnt overheated yet. The hottest its got is 420 F. But My biggest problem is my oil leak and my starter clutch. Larry, Can you tell me a little more about the modified starter clutch? My stock kz starter really struggled to start it before my starter clutch went out. Now it just wings and never engages. I will be buying a honda starter. Iam even running a elctro sport over wound stator and good battery.
1980 kz1000B4 LTD- 1327cc 9-1 comp
Ported J model head
Psp-3x cams
RS 36s
Welded MK11 crank
Back-cut MK11 trans
MTC 2 stage lock up
Stretched 4-6 over running Hayabusa rear rim with 190 rear tire
Complete frame brace kit installed
And Much Much more- SOLD

2014- ZX14R all stock for now
Last edit: 31 Aug 2013 12:14 by Powerstroke_fan.

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  • geerbangr
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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 07:42
#604263
What the deal with the bigger engines leaking oil ?
1978 KZ 1000


I go by Jason

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 08:33 - 01 Sep 2013 08:56
#604268
geerbangr wrote: What the deal with the bigger engines leaking oil ?
if put together properly none i have done plenty without issue. when you bore cases for large sleeves it gets thin where studs are installed in cases.
1984 750 Turbo
Last edit: 01 Sep 2013 08:56 by Patton. Reason: delete solicitation

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 09:24
#604273
DFIGPZ, Please tell me exactly how you do it so it dont leak. Ive tried two times now and it still leaks. First time i used yamabond. The second time i used gaskanich and annealed the gasket. Both leaked. I cleaned all surfaces very very carefully to remove any old junk. The engine was rebuilt around a 1000 miles ago, everything was inspected and blasted. I retorqued the nuts like stated and neither have held. One idea i did have i thought about trying. You can only buy a copper base gasket for a 1327. I thought about buying a stock fiber base gasket and getting it cut out. I kinda wondered if a fiber base gasket wouldnt work for sealing it up better.
1980 kz1000B4 LTD- 1327cc 9-1 comp
Ported J model head
Psp-3x cams
RS 36s
Welded MK11 crank
Back-cut MK11 trans
MTC 2 stage lock up
Stretched 4-6 over running Hayabusa rear rim with 190 rear tire
Complete frame brace kit installed
And Much Much more- SOLD

2014- ZX14R all stock for now

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 15:08
#604318
I thought about buying a stock fiber base gasket and getting it cut out. I kinda wondered if a fiber base gasket wouldnt work for sealing it up better.


I tried that once ..... I used cinch on it :pinch: squeezed the fiber base gasket out :blink: I tore it back down and replaced it with copper a week later :( imo not enough surface area...... :huh: no big stuff on the street z's for me . too many leaks :pinch:
2005 Kawasaki mean streak
2000 325 H.P. mcXpress turbo Hayabusa
1979 kz 1000 mk II ATP turbo
1975 Z1 960 cc Mr. Turbo
1975 Z1 1428 big block ATP turbo
1976 Kz900 1103 cc ATP turbo
1985 GS 1150E
1983 GS 1100E
1997 Suzuki Bandit 1200S
2001 Kawasaki EX 500 Ninja
1972 Honda cb750 (836cc turbo)

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 20:31
#604350
1980 LTD (changed over the years), 1979 LTD (being rebuilt), 1977 KZ turbo and various KZ's in various states of build. KLX110

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

01 Sep 2013 21:38
#604360
geerbanger check your pm box.
1984 750 Turbo

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Re: Radical streetable engine size

02 Sep 2013 09:39 - 02 Sep 2013 09:44
#604427
turboking wrote: I guess I'm a realist :ohmy: and I know I'm opening a big ole can of worms here :evil: I don't mean to crush anyone's toes.... :lol: but IMO 1075 cc for the street ....no case boring.... big studs all the stuff your told you need to have and do.blah, blah, blah :dry: ......I'm not selling parts or work...... :pinch: make a cool rider kz that you can ride all the time ..... and it may be blasphemy to a lot here but invest your money in newer technology (2nd bike)....... I love old kawasaki z series bikes, cool looking, nostalgic..... but at the same time parts are becoming harder to locate at a decent price.....I already own a 1428 big dry blocked turbo Z ,not ridden much as it gets too hot.... :huh: but if I want fast , I go to another of my street bikes, my pump premium (93 octane) fueled (14 psi boost) 325 h.p dynoed intercooled mcxpress turbo hayabusa. ( best e.t. 8.17 @ 173 in the quarter with 14 psi boost ) there is no comparison between the 1428 Z and the stock bore 1300 hayabusa turbo....... I wish you could out do newer technology , I'm a realist... ;) and like I said IMO :dry: :side: please, don't shoot the messenger/NO haters....:whistle:

[IMG

Pretty sound reasoning IMO ;) I've told guys for years the most cost effective motor for the street is 1015 for a 900 and 1075 for a 1000. But....everyone's got a different agenda so they proceed in directions that logic fails to follow.

A dragbike is not a good streetbike but a streetbike can make a hell of a good dragbike. Afterall, it's all in the rider anyway :side:
Last edit: 02 Sep 2013 09:44 by crh.

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