1977 KZ1000 cam chain tensioner removal?...

For a 1977 KZ1000 LTD.....

Pulling the carbs off the bike tomorrow and while at it would like to change the cam tensioner gasket. (leaking oil) I searched my manual and the forum but haven't found my answer. Can I just remove the tensioner to replace the gasket? Is anything going to fall into the motor or break or any hidden surprises when I loosen up the two bolts holding the tensioner to the motor?

My plan is to turn the motor over to TDC, (using the 17mm nut under the points cover) then loosen the jam nut and bolt on the tensioner, then remove the tensioner. Then be sure to not turn the motor while the tensioner is out. Install the reverse of removal.

Sound about right? Or should I leave the jam nut and bolt tight to keep everything in place during removal? Anything else I am missing?

I've asked a reliable source and was told no problem, just take it off. I'm thinking I may not do it anyways. Now that the carbs are off I'm not seeing any fresh oil leak around the tensioner, just dirty. Carbs are ready to go back on.

If I do decide to pull it I will be sure to post the results for future reference.

If you do remove the tensioner, first take a look in the manual on how to adjust it. If it is similar to the one on my '77 KZ650 the crank should be turned to a specific position. Another thing to consider is NOT loosening the jam nut and tensioner bolt. Assuming your tensioner is like mine, if you loosen those the spring will push the tensioner rod out toward the cam chain. If you leave those alone the tensioner rod will stay in the same position it currently is in and you should not need to re-adjust the tensioner after installing it. Here is a picture of one that is configured like mine; yours may or may not be the same. When tight, that bolt pinches the tensioner rod against the inside of the tensioner body and prevents the rod from moving. You can see that on this type if the jam nut and bolt are loosened the spring will push the rod forward. Ed

Yes, pretty sure mine is the same as yours. It's the type where all you do to adjust is put the motor at TDC, loosen the bolt/jam nut, the spring takes up the proper tension, then just lock down the bolt/jam nut and you're done.

If I remove it I will leave the bolt tight to keep it all together when it comes out of the motor.

All the manual says about removing the tensioner is (step 1. Remove head, Step 2. Remove tensioner)...or something like that. But its telling you how to remove the entire assembly, inside and out, not just the part on the outside.

It sounds too easy to do while the carbs are off. I already have the new gasket...I guess I'll just pull it and replace the gasket to be sure it doesn't leak. I'm going to add a tiny bit of permatex # 2 on both sides to be 100% sure.

It's easy.
DON'T turn the engine while it's off.
Take it off.
Clean everything up.
Compress the tensioner (back off the locknut then the lockbolt)compress it and lock compressed.
Put it together with a new gasket and turn the lockbolt loose.
Snug the lockbolt down, NOW set it like the book says.

BE careful with the lockbolt , I have seen a few people strip them.

Yup.....mine is the same one as in the pic Ed posted. No problems, exactly like you guys said. New gasket is on with a very thin layer of permatex #2 on each side just to be sure. I'll give it 24hrs before I start it but I'm sure its good.

I'm going to wait until tomorrow to put the carbs back on. I'm short 1 clamp for one of the airbox side intake tubes. I ordered one last week, supposed to be at my dealer tomorrow. Got a new set of airbox tubes and a new set of the engine side carb clamps from Z1E also. Already replaced the carb holders last time I had the carbs off. I'll be all back to stock jetting and intake (airbox) now. Stock exhaust too. Hoping this thing is going to run like new again! I've done everything else (valves, ignition) first so now its down to just getting the carbs right.