Valve keeper remover tool

has anyone used one of these while the engine is in the frame? It looks like ther might be clearance issues. I don't want to remove the head to change the valve seals.

No But I have used the Lever, and arbor. Tusk sells a universal one. I've posted links to them on Feebay several times. Not to difficult to do.
I do own both sizes of those quick ones. Have yet to have it work better than the lever system type.

is it a valve spring compressor that works without removing the head? i would like to get this done before i take another long trip.

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kaw-a-holic wrote: is it a valve spring compressor that works without removing the head? i would like to get this done before i take another long trip.

Sorry I had to get back to work. Off for the weekend now.
Have a look at these, then you may just make something that will do it. Its pretty easy to make up something.

If it's not a serious cammed race bike....why on earth would you be needing such a device? If the OEM valve springs are shot, the rest of the head needs going through anyway. Even if you were converting from S.O.T. to S.O.B. you would want to pull the head because you need to clearance the tappet bores for the cams that required the swap..

I would use such a device if I wanted to replace the valve stem seals and not remove the head. I would also use a pressurized cylinder with my air compressor to keep the valves in place while I replaced the seals.

crh wrote: If it's not a serious cammed race bike....why on earth would you be needing such a device? If the OEM valve springs are shot, the rest of the head needs going through anyway. Even if you were converting from S.O.T. to S.O.B. you would want to pull the head because you need to clearance the tappet bores for the cams that required the swap..

Because the whole head doesn't need servicing. As I mentioned in my original post the valve seals need to be replaced.

kaw-a-holic wrote: Because the whole head doesn't need servicing. As I mentioned in my original post the valve seals need to be replaced.

Yup. On bikes this old, this is not very unusual. The seals harden with age and start to leak, even though the valves themselves may still seal just fine.

You're kidding yourself if you think the head doesn't need servicing when the valve seals are shot. Also getting the old seals off the guides plus getting all pieces out of the tappet bores isn't going to be easy.

For the cost of a head gasket and a few hours labor you're way ahead of the game pulling the head to do the seals and properly check the guides and valves. Anything less is just a band aid..

Only a Farmer can start with $hit and end up with something good :side:

If a leak down test shows the cylinder and valves sealing well. Changing out the stem seals, isn't much harder than changing shims under buckets during a valve adjustment. They come right out, go right back in. It isn't very difficult at all.
Will it stop the oil consumption is the question. Since a leak down test, or compression test will not tell you the condition of the oil rings or the valve stem seals/ guides.

Old seals come out in pieces for me.

I've seen them come out in prices as well as whole. Lets apply so theory here. When I purchased the bike it had 12,900 miles and had been sitting unlicensed since 1986. Your telling me that there is no chance that the seals would be dried and cracked? I cam appreciate what you are saying. I don't like to take short cuts but in this scenario I'm trying to have less down time since I'm currently an apartment dweller with no garage. When I do a leak down test and the result are negative to motor will be rebuilt. If it's not I'm not going to disassemble until winter. So yes I'm hoping for a band-aid to get me through the summer(2 months). Thank you for your input.