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Like others here have said, it all depends how much time and money you have. Replacing the top end bits rubber bits will cost I'm guessing $50.00 and the cam chain guide about $20.00. Definitely check the chain for stretching. But most likely it is good. Valve seals are cheap. Its the work involved that takes time. And you will need a valve spring compressor as well. You will need a two torque wrenches, one in ft-lb and the other in in-lb. At minimum you will need the valve cover gasket and a head gasket, possibly a cylinder block base gasket. So I would recommend buying a whole gasket kit. This will come with the o-ring seals, valve stem seals and all the other gaskets. More economical. You don't need to take the cylinder block off, but if you disturb the base gasket, then you will have to. The hardest part I found was cleaning off the old gaskets. You can buy gasket remover for that and scotch brite pads as drill attachments. Or nylon brush drill attachments. Have to be careful you do not scratch the gasket surface. Oh, take the oil pan off while you are at it. This is a good idea to clean out any hard plastic parts that broke off and good time clean out the sludge of course. I found the oil pump screen and some of this plastic partially blocking it (very minor). Make sure the oil pump is free of cam chain tensioner debris.
By the way, the gasket kit comes with the oil pan gasket.

When my cam chain guide broke, I was planning on doing a first overbore (compression is close to its service life). That would have been $500.00 alone in parts and machining, not even touching anything on the head. So in the end I said "screw it", I only replaced the cam chain guide and slapped everything back together then went back to riding. The bike runs strong enough for me for right now. Also, now I have the experience to go back in quickly once I have the funds to do everything at once (fist overbore and go over the head). I also have another bike I can ride when this one is down for service.

So that is the trade off. The way I did it I took a gamble and deferred the opportunity. It worked out. Money was the deciding factor.

By the way, make sure you adjust tensioner from time to time to keep the chain from slapping. If it is an automatic one, make sure it is functioning correctly. I suspect this may have something to do with these guides getting damaged.

wow great info. i really appreciate that, i feel like im going down the same river. i'm going to take my time and do it right. i have another bike which is a daily driver.this has been an on going project so after this,this thing should be bulletproof, so whats another month. ill keep you posted on the tear down, thanks again!

a little update. so i pull the valve cover and checked my clearance. all valves are between .002-.005. am i in need of some shims? the online manual im looking at is saying .003-.007. also any advise on how to measure cam chain stretch??thanks guys

nevermind, that seems to me the last of my worries.pulled the head and this is what i found.. to rebuild or by a new motor. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

Old Kaws are notorious for drop the chinsey ass timing chain guides in the pan if you have ever took one down you've most likely found that before

I know iam blind, but other than the guides, i dont see what your talking about. I cant see what causing the motor to be rebuilt or replaced.

Powerstroke_fan wrote: I know iam blind, but other than the guides, i dont see what your talking about. I cant see what causing the motor to be rebuilt or replaced.

i dunno last night when i pulled everything and saw how dirty the pistons were i was think of a rebuild. but i guess if i just clean everything up and get my cylinders checked ill throw it back together. with new valves, guides, and seals should we good to go i guess i just panic and suggestion on how to clean everything up? should i use the same piston rings as long as i don't have to hone the cylinders? i thought the worst when i pulled everything apart but what do you expect from 33,xxx mile engine,right?

That's just carbon build up. Are you going to pull the cylinder block? Sounds like it from what you describe on doing. Not a bad idea. That way you can measure all the bores to make sure they are in spec. Would have been good to know the compression on the engine before taking it apart. But the measurements will tell you the tale. You can use marvel mystery oil with a green scotch brite pad to clean the piston domes. Just slide a some cardboard underneath each piston as you clean it (the assumption is that the cylinder block is removed) and don't let any debris fall into the case hole beneath the pistons. If the cylinders are in spec, a light hone with new rings would be good if needed. I think a set of four goes for around $70.00. If the cylinders are beyond the service limit, you then have an option of going first overbore, or going with a larger displacement bore kit. Now you start getting in some time and money. Because no matter which which you size you go, you would need the new pistons and rings along with the machining to make everything match. If you had good compression before the tear down and the cylinders are in spec (which in that case they should be), I would just leave everything be as is and put everything back together.

Be sure to pull the oil pan so you can remove any remaining chunks of the cam chain guide and clean the oil pump screen.

ya i pulled the head and cylinders off everything is pretty dirty. i will use you cardboard trick because i was getting most frustrated with some of the dirt was falling down. im thinking ill hit it good with some brake parts cleaner followed by some white lithium grease spray.the oil pan is removed already. any suggestions on how to the pistons back in the cylinders? im a car guy and have always installed pistons and rods from the top.thanks- Eric

I personally use some wide zip ties to start the rings. You make sure your rings are staggered. Some use a block of wood to help support the cylinders.