Idea for pulling dents from header.

I bought a solid but dinged up Kerker off of ebay. I have been thinking of having the studs body shops use to pull dents welded on and then heat it and pull on the dents. I have never used this stuff so I dont know if it has a chance of working. Wkat do you think?
Wayne

Sometimes possible to push an appropriate size ball bearing through a heat-softened pipe to reduce the dent.
Should first weld a cable onto the ball bearing, whereby it may be pulled from inside the pipe.

Pic?

Good Fortune!

I'm not sure welding on a stud and the using a slide hammer would work. I would guess that the thickness is greater on the header than a tank. The difference between a car panel and motorcycle tanks is significant. At least for KZ's, my Yamaha tank is tin foil next to my KZ's. I would try it on junk header first of comparable wall thickness. I saw other members here mention using large steel ball bearings in varying sizes to take out dings. I would they would start off with smaller diameter first and then gradually move up. But I have never seen or read how they use these bearings. Should try finding out.

Edit: Opps, I guess I type and post too slow LOL. Thanks Patton, I have always wondered how they use them.

How good are your welding skills? This vid involves major surgery....

I agree that the pipes are heavier. Thats why I was thinking of using the studs with heat applied to the area and then pulling. The bearing thing sounds good but looks to be tough to do.
Wayne

KZJOE900 wrote: I'm not sure welding on a stud and the using a slide hammer would work. I would guess that the thickness is greater on the header than a tank. The difference between a car panel and motorcycle tanks is significant. At least for KZ's, my Yamaha tank is tin foil next to my KZ's. I would try it on junk header first of comparable wall thickness. I saw other members here mention using large steel ball bearings in varying sizes to take out dings. I would they would start off with smaller diameter first and then gradually move up. But I have never seen or read how they use these bearings. Should try finding out.

Edit: Opps, I guess I type and post too slow LOL. Thanks Patton, I have always wondered how they use them.

The welding I could farm out. I would be more concerned with the pipes warping out of alignment. I guess I could bolt them up to a old head before welding.
Wayne

DesertKZ wrote: How good are your welding skills? This vid involves major surgery....

CLICK - - - - - - -> Header Repair











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Wow, thanks. That was a read. Another guy whose skills surpass mine greatly! I dod see he used an old head to hold things in place though.
Wayne

Kraz1 wrote: CLICK - - - - - - -> Header Repair











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Those plugs can and will pop out.

I do smoker pipes all the time, you should back them up with something.

Here are some pics of the pipe I am working on.The air pressure thing looks interesting.

There is an easier way, but it requires a large freezer, and depending on the size of the dent, could take several attempts.

When water freezes, it expands about 10%, so this fix relies on this physical property. Fill the dented pipe with water. Wrap the dented area with a rag for insulation. Leave the ends uninsulated. Stick the pipe in the freezer with the dent centered as the lowest point. The ends will freeze and create a plug on each side, and as the water freezes it will build pressure high enough to push the dent out. We use freeze seals in the nuclear industry and depending on the length of the seal, can hold upwards of 3000 psi.

You will want to thaw from the ends first as to prevent creating a vacuum if the middle were to thaw first.

I have done this procedure on a Superhawk header and it worked great. The only sign there was ever any damage was the scratch that was left from the damage.

I think this is the method I will try . I have a big enough freezer and really like the idea and your explanation on the freeze plugs. I assume if I leave the insulation on it will also thaw in the middle last avoiding the vacuum. Thanks.
Wayne

hawkrider wrote: There is an easier way, but it requires a large freezer, and depending on the size of the dent, could take several attempts.

When water freezes, it expands about 10%, so this fix relies on this physical property. Fill the dented pipe with water. Wrap the dented area with a rag for insulation. Leave the ends uninsulated. Stick the pipe in the freezer with the dent centered as the lowest point. The ends will freeze and create a plug on each side, and as the water freezes it will build pressure high enough to push the dent out. We use freeze seals in the nuclear industry and depending on the length of the seal, can hold upwards of 3000 psi.

You will want to thaw from the ends first as to prevent creating a vacuum if the middle were to thaw first.

I have done this procedure on a Superhawk header and it worked great. The only sign there was ever any damage was the scratch that was left from the damage.