- Posts: 318
- Thank you received: 0
broke cam cap bolt
- brianrae33
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
1982 kz1000ltd
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- wireman
- Offline
- User
- The most interesting prick in the world
- Posts: 4761
- Thank you received: 299
posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 4TheKZ1000
- Visitor
Also....don’t use a cheap extractor as they will break off and cause more grief.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- wireman
- Offline
- User
- The most interesting prick in the world
- Posts: 4761
- Thank you received: 299
posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15344
- Thank you received: 2829
Also, what did you have your torque wrench set at when it broke? Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Powerstroke_fan
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 1017
- Thank you received: 83
1980 kz1000B4 LTD- 1327cc 9-1 comp
Ported J model head
Psp-3x cams
RS 36s
Welded MK11 crank
Back-cut MK11 trans
MTC 2 stage lock up
Stretched 4-6 over running Hayabusa rear rim with 190 rear tire
Complete frame brace kit installed
And Much Much more- SOLD
2014- ZX14R all stock for now
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Old Man Rock
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 6224
- Thank you received: 225
Definitely get it fixed or if going with Heli-Coil....
* Start with a small drill bit dead center of the broken bolt shaft and start a pilot hole no deeper than the end of the threads.
* Then go up a bit size or two and enlarge the hole.
* Repeat up to 1/4" drill bit for this is what is required for the Heli 6-30 metric coils.
* Insert the coil with red locktite, break of the coil tang, all good...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- monroeraustin
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 38
- Thank you received: 1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15344
- Thank you received: 2829
Old Man Rock wrote: ...Screw the torque, snug feel is good enough.
OMR
That works for a person who has a great "feel" for what is tight enough but not too tight, and there certainly are some folks who can do that consistently. The problem is that most folks (me included) don't have that touch on aluminum engines even though working on steel or cast iron parts has never been a problem, so the risk of under or over-tightening a fastener is very real. Developing that "touch" very often involves stripping some threads before a person learns what's "too much" or having a fastener vibrate out because it wasn't tight enough. Using the correct torque wrench and keeping to the light side of the specified torque range would normally prevent heli-coils and timeserts from being needed to start with and would certainly prevent 99.999% of broken bolts. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.