Valve Clearance Adjustments

I will be moving towards next doing a valve adjustment to my KZ750 engine. I just got the valve job done on the head. I need a bit of advice on how to do this proceedure. Should I check the clearances with the head off the bike or on the bike? Also attached below is the Adjustment Clearance Chart..

Can someone give an example on how to read it? That would be of great help if someone could explain it so that a dummy could understand it..

Thanks in advance..

There's a great write up on the kz650info site I will dig up in a moment.
Don't know if it is here.

The steps on the right side of the chart explains how to use the chart, steps 1 to 4.

1. Measure the clearance:
You will want to measure all 4 exhaust and all 4 intake clearances, writing them down like this; 1 ex =, 2 ex =, 3 ex =, 4 ex =.
Then all the intake clearances. 1,2,3 & 4.
When using the chart, just work on the out of spec clearances, one at a time.

2. Check present shim size:
If the clearance is not in spec on one (or more) of the 8 measurements above, you will need to remove the shim under the valve lifter/bucket of the out of spec clearance/s, and measure and/or read the shim thickness printed on the shim.
Do confirm by measuring the shim, even if you can read the number on the shim. Do not mix up the shims, keep the shim with it's position written on your list, 2ex, 2 ex etc.

3. Match clearance in vertical coloum (on left) with current shim size in horizontal coloum (top row):
Do this only where clearance is out of spec. Any clearances that are within spec (that are OK) should be left alone.

4. The shim specified where the coloums/lines intersect, is the one that will give you proper clearance:
So what you do is find your out of spec clearance (of the 8 measured above) in the left coloum, come accross to the right on that line, and come down from the top depending on the size of the current shim that's under that bucket. Where these two lines meet, this is the shim size you need to get the clearance into spec.

I will link you to the post on setting clearances I mentioned above. It should give you a better idea of a different way to correct out of spec clearances.
This is for a kz650, but I believe the kz750/4 is the same.

Here it is:
forums.kz650.info/index.php?topic=3000.0

Rons procedure:
There are different ways to accomplish the same thing here. The general procedure accepted and pretty much outlined in the manuals involves turning the engine over to a specific point of rotation, then digging into your stash of feelers and measure the exact clearance between each valve bucket and cam lobe at the correct point of rotation. Then remove the cams, swap shims, reinstalll the cams, retime the cams. I learned long, long ago there's an easier way. Takes maybe 5 minutes at most to check all 8 valves.
Start out by getting your feelers, you need a .05mm, .10mm, .15mm and a .20mm. This is all you need for the most part, don't bother checking with more precision than that because it doesn't matter as shims are only available in .05mm increments.
Generally shoot for between .10-.15mm clearance cold. Turn the engine over slowly clockwise with your 17mm socket on the right end of the crank. Do this while constantly trying to insert a .10mm feeler between a bucket and cam lobe. If at any point of rotation a .10mm fits, try a .15mm. If not try a .05mm. This can be done quickly when you get the feel for it. Once you figure the largest feeler in .05mm increment that inserts call that your clearance, so if a .10mm fits and a .15mm doesn't, call .10mm your clearance. Do this for all 8 valves then figure what you've got to change. For example say the 8 valves measured .10, .05, 10, .15 on one cam, you'd see 2 are right where you want them, and one needs a one size larger shim, one needs a one size smaller to bring them all to .10mm. So then you remove your upper camchain idler, unbolt the cam, remove the caps, then carefully keep all chain slack between the cams and the chain tight going down in the engine and carefully move the cam towards the center of the engine, remove one of the valve buckets needing adjustment, retrieve the shim, note the size and obtain your suitable replacement, reinstall, carefully lift the cam back in position keeping chain tight going down in the engine, torque down the camcaps to 7 ft/lb or so and you're done with that cam. Recheck clearances and move to the other cam. One cam at a time, do the way I say and timing will not be fouled up.

Awesome! Thanks...that is a great write up. I appreciate it.

Ok today I checked the valve clearance using a feeler gauge. I rotated the crankshaft using a 17mm socket wrench rotating until the cam lobe pointed straight up. I then took the feeler gauge using .05, .10, .15, .20 underneath until I found the one which would fit going up in sizes until I found the one which would not fit. I then wrote down the sizes.

Here's the measurements...

1. .20
2. .20
3. .15
4. .05 gauge won't fit
5. .05 gauge won't fit
6. .30
7. .20
8. .20

I understand the next step would be to check the existing shim sizes and swap the shims so to acquire clearance between .08-.18.
I know until I get the sizes I can't make the next move but can someone shed and example ideal lets say # 1 had a 255 shim how would I read the chart? To know which shim ill need? Thanks in advance.

When looking at the chart it says swap it for a 2.60 which is a larger shim. I'm a bit confused. Can someone please explain?

Yes the 2.60 is a thicker shim, which would decrease the clearance on your example. To put it to the correct spec. Super simple to read the chart. but like you said, you need to know which shims you have now.
There is a file in "File Base" which has a Map for your shims and clearances. Or you can just make one. Record the clearances, and then the shim size for each valve. Then you have a record for next time.

The larger shim will close the gap a little, by .05 mm, so that would bring the clearance on #1 to 0.15 mm.

monroeraustin wrote: Ok today I checked the valve clearance using a feeler gauge. I rotated the crankshaft using a 17mm socket wrench rotating until the cam lobe pointed straight up. I then took the feeler gauge using .05, .10, .15, .20 underneath until I found the one which would fit going up in sizes until I found the one which would not fit. I then wrote down the sizes.

Here's the measurements...

1. .20
2. .20
3. .15
4. .05 gauge won't fit
5. .05 gauge won't fit
6. .30
7. .20
8. .20

I understand the next step would be to check the existing shim sizes and swap the shims so to acquire clearance between .08-.18.
I know until I get the sizes I can't make the next move but can someone shed and example ideal lets say # 1 had a 255 shim how would I read the chart? To know which shim ill need? Thanks in advance.

When looking at the chart it says swap it for a 2.60 which is a larger shim. I'm a bit confused. Can someone please explain?

Thats exactly right. But you may be able to swap out some of your current shims to tighten up some of the loose ones and only need a few shims to get them all in. Don't forget your measuring in Millimeters not inches, that will get you the wrong measurements I can't believe there are some loose, since they always tighten up when worn.

elfmagic17 wrote:

monroeraustin wrote: Ok today I checked the valve clearance using a feeler gauge. I rotated the crankshaft using a 17mm socket wrench rotating until the cam lobe pointed straight up. I then took the feeler gauge using .05, .10, .15, .20 underneath until I found the one which would fit going up in sizes until I found the one which would not fit. I then wrote down the sizes.

Here's the measurements...

1. .20
2. .20
3. .15
4. .05 gauge won't fit
5. .05 gauge won't fit
6. .30
7. .20
8. .20

I understand the next step would be to check the existing shim sizes and swap the shims so to acquire clearance between .08-.18.
I know until I get the sizes I can't make the next move but can someone shed and example ideal lets say # 1 had a 255 shim how would I read the chart? To know which shim ill need? Thanks in advance.

When looking at the chart it says swap it for a 2.60 which is a larger shim. I'm a bit confused. Can someone please explain?

Thats exactly right. But you may be able to swap out some of your current shims to tighten up some of the loose ones and only need a few shims to get them all in. Don't forget your measuring in Millimeters not inches, that will get you the wrong measurements I can't believe there are some loose, since they always tighten up when worn.

Oh did I mention I had this head rebuilt? New valves ect? I guess they just put the old shims back in not sure if that explains why a few of them are tight. Anyone know when you are at top dead center on 1 & 4 what valves are open ex and intake? Just curious. I know I seen #3 cam lobe pointing down but thought # 6 would be open too.

I have lined up the cams according to the manual but was just asking.

Ok thanks for the responses again. It's all starting to make sense now this is my first time ever doing these procedures.
Later on this week ill be taking the cams out again to check the shim sizes, and go from there. Now I know each valve should be within .08mm - .18mm so I'm thinking if I could get all valves clearances at .10mm that would be acceptable right? If I were to use the .15 feeler gauge and it would not fit then I would be right on.


Here's the feeler gauge I'm using to take the readings.

hi, I am in the middle of a 750 valve adjustment also, maybe we can compare notes.
No clearances on the intake so I am ordering 2 sizes smaller, from 2.50 to 2.40, I don't know if that is a for example or not.

on your guage, the .008 is probably the biggest that should fit in there.

as close as my best guess is going to get.
1. .20- would need a 2.60
2. .20- would need a 2.60
3. .15- good n' tight
4. .05 gauge won't fit- going to need to experiment/guess
5. .05 gauge won't fit- going to need to experinent/guess
6. .30- would need a 2.70
7. .20- would need a 2.60
8. .20- would need a 2.60