No compression in Cylinder #2 Leak test results

Ok..

I have a Kz750 Cylinder head which I plugged the 4 holes at the top of the head so the water wouldn't leak out. I next poured water into each exhaust whole. I have torn the motor down because I am not getting compression in my #2 cylinder. Water test found the #2 and #3 exhaust valves are leaking water. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Compression before installation of new rings and base gaskets. #1 85psi #2 0psi #3 85psi #4 85psi...

I had installed the head and since then rechecked the compression and its now #1 85psi #2 0psi #3 150psi #4 150psi.

What is my next steps? Any ideals are greatly appreciated...

Since you said in your other thread that you had checked valve clearances, at a minimum you'll need valves ground, and maybe the seat. Or the valves could be bent.

If you're anywhere near east central Indiana I'll give you a 750 head if you pick it up.

+1 Valve Job. Should have done the leak down test before disassembling, then you could have done the valve job and rings.
Oh well live and learn. If you don't learn something new everyday, you must be dead.

9 angle valve job.

Ok.. just got the head back from M & M Cylinders today.. Brand new valve job... Looks new again. Next valve clearances... Hopefully the new valve job will correct the compression issue.

Guy did such a good job i grabbed some stickers...

Looks good

Be careful when putting it back together, the books have an err for the camshaft bearing cap bolt torque. They will not take the rated 12 foot pounds of tension. It should be in Inch Pounds, like 90 inch pounds. Review the threads here. Lots of posts with stripped camshaft cap bolt holes.

Motor Head wrote: Be careful when putting it back together, the books have an err for the camshaft bearing cap bolt torque. They will not take the rated 12 foot pounds of tension. It should be in Inch Pounds, like 90 inch pounds. Review the threads here. Lots of posts with stripped camshaft cap bolt holes.

And the two head bolts in the cam chain tunnel too. Go easy on them or they strip...

Good to get a small torque wrench designed for transmission work. You need one that will measure 90 I-P accurately. The big ones are not accurate at the low end of the range.

Lorcan wrote:

Motor Head wrote: Be careful when putting it back together, the books have an err for the camshaft bearing cap bolt torque. They will not take the rated 12 foot pounds of tension. It should be in Inch Pounds, like 90 inch pounds. Review the threads here. Lots of posts with stripped camshaft cap bolt holes.

And the two head bolts in the cam chain tunnel too. Go easy on them or they strip...

Geez I can't win for loosing. I broke the rear head bolt in the cam chain tunnel. Here we go again. I did manage to catch the top of the broken bolt so that it didn't fall into the engine. I ordered (2) new bolts so I will be waiting until they arrive before I disassemble the head to remove the broken bolt. Hopefully it's easy to remove the broken bolt from the cylinder head.

I have good craftsman torque wrenches I think the bolts were worn as when I were Tighting the bolt I felt early on some stress on the bolt but didnt hear a click of the torque wrench. I kept going and it snapped.

Wish I had read these post but had already done the damage. The manual specs were 22 ft-lbs. I tightened the bolt in 2 stages first setting the wrench at 11 ft-lbs and then up to 22. Oh well can anyone shed some light on what I might need to do to remove that bolt. I just spent $100 having the cam cap bolt heli-coiled. I hope this is a lot easier to remove.

Next time ill tighten them to 90 inc-lbs but this is a learning experience. I am gaining a lot of Valuable information from this project. I'm sure by the time I get this thing back together I will be really appreciate it. Thanks to everyone for all your help and support.

Bummer.
Those little 6mm bolts won't take 22lbs of torque, that is way to much tension for the bolt diameter. To bad you broke it off, but you should be able to remove it. I'd get to where I could Center punch it, then try a Left Hand Drill Bit and a reversing drill. It will probably back right out if the threads aren't damaged.

Im a big fan of heli-coiling bolt holes in aluminum parts like that,especially cam cap bolt holes.
If nothing else atleast run a bottoming tap which is basically a tap with the point cut off so it cleans threads to bottem of hole.
Its also good to put just a little oil or anti seize on the threads before running them in.
How much did the valve job run you?