No compression in Cylinder #2 Leak test results

wireman wrote: Im a big fan of heli-coiling bolt holes in aluminum parts like that,especially cam cap bolt holes.
If nothing else atleast run a bottoming tap which is basically a tap with the point cut off so it cleans threads to bottem of hole.
Its also good to put just a little oil or anti seize on the threads before running them in.
How much did the valve job run you?

I spent $130 on intake valves $35 x 4 and $100 on exhaust $25 x 4. The shop charged me $200 to resurface and reseat the valves and glassbead the head. It took 3 days and it was back ready to go on. So total valve job cost $430.

Now I'm back to taking it back off. I will have to once I get the bolt exstracted check the valve clearances. I ran a .08 feeler gauge on a few and it was VERY TIGHT!!

I don't want to muck this up. Can I check valve clearances with the valve head off? I'd like to take this apart only once for the last time.

You can get them close with the head off(bench shim),but they will change a little when head is torqued down.
I learned that from that evil genius Sid Pogue many many many many years ago(See long time ago! :woohoo: )
Another trick I learned from the great one was to use slightly longer bolts on the cam caps if youre not going to heli-coil the bolt holes ,this way youre not pulling against the top threads as youre cranking down the cam caps which will be pushing certain lobes against the buckets/valve springs.

BIG BUMMER :sick: ^{still fixable though} I wonder how many bolts have been broken off as result of incorrect torque spec in the manual :evil: quite a few I guess.......... :huh:

monroeraustin wrote: .... The manual specs were 22 ft-lbs.......

I'm surprised the KZ750 spec would be 22 ft lb for the 2 cylinder head bolts. What manual are you using? My KZ650 manuals call for 16-20 ft lbs for the 2 6mm head bolts and 27-31 ft lbs for the 12 10mm cylinder head nuts. If I ever pull the head I will be torquing to the lowest numbers. Ed

650ed wrote:

monroeraustin wrote: .... The manual specs were 22 ft-lbs.......

I'm surprised the KZ750 spec would be 22 ft lb for the 2 cylinder head bolts. What manual are you using? My KZ650 manuals call for 16-20 ft lbs for the 2 6mm head bolts and 27-31 ft lbs for the 12 10mm cylinder head nuts. If I ever pull the head I will be torquing to the lowest numbers. Ed

I am using the Klymer Manual.. it sucks you follow what you think is correct and you end up creating a bigger problem.. The Valve head bolts are calling for 30 Ft-Ibs. is this also correct.. 650ed.. I see your manual says 27-31 ft lbs.. if one more bolt breaks Im going ape crap.. should it be 27 ft lbs on the nuts and 90 inc lbs on the 2 cam chain bolts.. someone please advise.. I dont want to keep mucking around with just trying to get the head back on.. Not to mention the valve adjustment process and lining up the cams.. its getting a bit stressful... :blink:

90 inch pounds sounds too light for cam tunnel cylinder head bolts. I could be wrong, but I think the 90 inch pound reference was for the camshaft cap bolts. I would recommend you try to pick up a Kawasaki Service Manual for your bike. They usually are available on eBay; be sure to get one for your exact year/model bike. That manual should have the torque specs for your bike; they're not all the same. Ed

Ok.. Here's the torque specifications out of the kawasaki manual.. I do not want to break another bolt

I have been advised in previous posts the infomation in the manual is incorrect.. I am a bit confussed on the torque for the cylinder head cam chain bolts.. I now see from looking at several manuals giving diffrent values.. I have been given advice to buy another manual but I already have several.. Anyone have a Kawasaki OEM manual who can look up the torque values for the cylinder head nuts, and bolts.. I would like to NOT buy another book if possible.

I would go a Max of 104 Lb.In. on those 6mm bolts in the chain area of the head. Those little bolts won't take even the Minimum 16 Lb.Ft. the Kawasaki manuel calls for. Even if the bolt will the aluminum won't. Maybe s little low or medium strenth loc-tite when installing them too.

elfmagic17 wrote: I would go a Max of 104 Lb.In. on those 6mm bolts in the chain area of the head. Those little bolts won't take even the Minimum 16 Lb.Ft. the Kawasaki manuel calls for. Even if the bolt will the aluminum won't. Maybe s little low or medium strenth loc-tite when installing them too.

Some bikes have 6mm head bolts in the cam chain tunnel, but some use 8mm bolts. His page from his manual shows 2 8mm cylinder head bolts, but to be safe I would measure them because his manual may not be correct for his engine. Ed

elfmagic17 wrote: I would go a Max of 104 Lb.In. on those 6mm bolts in the chain area of the head. Those little bolts won't take even the Minimum 16 Lb.Ft. the Kawasaki manuel calls for. Even if the bolt will the aluminum won't. Maybe s little low or medium strenth loc-tite when installing them too.

Ok I finally got the broken screw out luckily the screw just broke off leaving enough to use a vise grip to take the rest of the bolt out.
Ordered new bolts and I used loctite on the cam chain 6mm bolts torquing to max 104 inc lbs. when tightening the bolt it didn't seem like much torque when I heard the "click" I immediately stopped. The head is on! Next VALVE CLEARANCE!!