KZ1000J, Cam Chain Life

wrote:

Dragging a thread into the 2020's.  Is it possible to change out the cam guides with just the top valve cover removed? I have a 26,000m bike with what sounds like a noisy cam chain on low revs/tick over. 
I will go down the manual tensioner route but wondering if it's also worth swapping the guides out if easily removeable. 
Cheers.

Before replacing chain guide,  ( which you should pull the  top end off   for )or splitting cases for cam chain replacement 
Try setting the motor to fully tuned up specs 
Motor will rattle if valves  are not shimmed properly, Carbs synced , and all adjustments completed first

 

You do not have to remove the head to swap in cam chain idlers or the tensioner. Extreme caution you don’t drop parts into the lower cases. But to change out the chain you will have to remove the upper end and split the cases.

On the J/GPZ type motors you have to remove the head and block to remove/replace the cam chain guides.

wrote:

On the J/GPZ type motors you have to remove the head and block to remove/replace the cam chain guides.



thanks I need to stay within my vintage.. 
 

The short answer is no. Also, the long answer is no.

More popcorn please.......

Rick H.

By Dr_Kiwi:   .... I have a 26,000m bike with what sounds like a noisy cam chain on low revs/tick over. ....

Have you synchronized the carburetors with a vacuum sync tool?
 

Carbs have been sync'd and are fine. When I stripped,cleaned and rebuilt the auto tensioner I noticed it was slightly outside (less than) the 7/16" 7.5mm they spec in the workshop manual.  
I have been told on a number of occasions the chains on the 81-83J's are pretty tough and don't seem to stretch at the millage my bike is showing.
I will try the APE manual tensioner and see if that helps, maybe time for a strip and build at the end of the summer.
 Thanks again folks. 

You might want to pull the tensioner and make sure it's working properly before ditching it.  Under normal usage the chain, tensioner guides, and the tensioner proper should last the life of the bike.  Maybe the tensioner is gumbed up or something?

 

Just an update as I hate it when a poster just disappears. 
ATE Chain tensioned didn't seem to make any real difference, the bike still makes some knocking/slapping type noises when warming up, like said previously they are almost continuous but not rhythmic or directly related to RPM. It almost sounds like a bottom end noise but I'd expect that to be inline with tick over/rpm.
Once warm the bike is fine and even when cold it doesn't sound too bad, I plan on running it this summer (if we have one in the UK) and taking a good look at it this autumn/fall. 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions so far and if there's anyone in the Northwest of England who knows these engines inside out please shout up and I'd appreciate to borrow your ears!
Cheers,
 Mike. 

What is the idle rpm speed set at?  Ed

My 78 1000 will make noise if I lower the rpm to much (below 800) It’s backlash in the trans. If I pull in the clutch it gets quiet. I normally keep the idle rpm about 1000 to 1100