rehoning

replacing the rings on my #4 cylinder because i bent the second compression ring..question..barely 500 miles on the rest of the cylinders..rings seated real nice..so should i just deglaze the cylinder thats getting the new rings or would it be beneficial to deglaze all of them...thanx in advance for any input..

Wouldnt hurt to knock glaze off them,dont get crazy with it though

so even though the rings are seated pretty much..i can still just knock off the shiny part???

Yep youre just knocking off the glaze is all.
When you finish honing the cylinder get 2-3 cans of carb or brake clean and a couple rolls of white toilet paper.
Start spraying down the bores then keep cleaning them till you dont see any black crud coming off on to the toilet paper,it may take a while but keep doing it till the bore is clean then do the next one.
As for whether to oil the bores/pisons or install them dry thats a totally differant discusion,I install pistons/rings dry myself.

I would put the new rings on and run it, 500 miles is nothing unless it's racing miles.

Well hell, you have to pull the cylinder anyways right... Might as well deglaze all 4 and be done with it...

Here's a novel idea, do some research on the subject. What the honing actually does, how it's done, and the results of the process. If after that you decide to hone all four cylinders, I'll be amazed.

since you have the cylinder block off anyway hit all 4 holes with a ball hone . doing that won't hurt anything. if it were mine that is what I would do.......... :dry:

do research the break in period so the assembly lube has time to evaporate.

brianrae33 wrote: replacing the rings on my #4 cylinder because i bent the second compression ring..question..barely 500 miles on the rest of the cylinders..rings seated real nice..so should i just deglaze the cylinder thats getting the new rings or would it be beneficial to deglaze all of them...thanx in advance for any input..

I would not hone the cylinders that are getting used rings put back in. I did exactly that years ago, turned a good, clean running Z1R into an oil burner. I was told after the fact that new rings have a rough finish on the face of the ring that acts against the rough finish of the honed cylinder wall. in a perfect world the rings and cylinder wear together to create a smooth good sealing surface on both the rings and cylinder wall. A worn smooth surface on the ring face coupled to a honed cylinder finish = a very long time before the cylinder wears smooth and stops buning oil.
If your rings have seated properly why would you take a chance on messing that up?

wireman wrote: Wouldnt hurt to knock glaze off them,dont get crazy with it though

Did anybody notice the part about knocking the glaze off and not getting crazy?
but hey by all means put the damn cylinder back on the way it sits,dont worry about cleaning the trash out of the bores because everybody knows theres no little pieces of trash that get embedded in the cylinder walls from the rings as they seat themselves when they get installed.
Hell I wouldnt even waste money changing the oil and filter,cuz everybody knows all you need to is add some zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzdp and everything will be fine! :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

Interesting research... I took your advice and came across this... See bold...
Pretty much what the rest of us replied...


The term "honing" includes more than one process, and each process has a different objective.
After cylinder boring, honing is used to smooth the cylinder walls and remove the peaks left by the boring process.

When re-ringing, a hone is used to put small scratches in the bore, to achieve rapid ring wear to seat the rings.

Rings will seat without honing (a used cylinder), it may just take longer. Anyone that tells you that rings will never seat unless you hone, is saying that ring wear will never happen. Cast iron rubbing on cast iron and no wear will happen? Neat trick.

If the cylinder still has all the cross hatching visible, and all measurements are within limits, then why use a hone? The purpose of honing is to put the cross hatching there, right? And it's already there.

I'm still not sure what people refer to when they speak of a glaze breaking hone, as far as I can determine, a glaze is just a cylinder wall that has worn smooth, and in that case you would want to hone the cylinder with a standard cylinder hone.

To answer the original question, you can get a brush/ball/ whatever term the parts store uses, hone from AutoZone or any other parts store, and do a light hone to seat the rings faster. You are basically turning the cylinder into a file to wear the rings rapidly, to get maximum seal sooner.

Just my usual questioning of "Conventional Wisdom"

[Edited on 25-3-2005 by steell]