got the head off #1 piston stuck in the bore help!

not unless your going to tear it completely down anyway. id heat the hell out of the deadcenter and hit it with the hammer of thor and something with little give like a big punch with something like a disk under it to distribute the brunt and prevent punching thru it

Try heating the sleeve above/below the piston with a propane torch then blast the piston with some wd40 to cool it down really fast and see if you can knock it loose

The sleeve is probably toast from the rust. Maybe it can be bored larger. Likewise the rings are shot. If you haven't beaten the piston out of shape it may be OK, at least not rusted.

Raise the offender up out of the block. Cut the flange off the sleeve with whatever you have to cut it with. I would use a cutoff wheel in a die or angle grinder. A fine tooth hacksaw would work with some patience. Clean the burrs off the outside of the sleeve with a file. Slide the block up and off the pistons. CARFULLY cut the sleeve along its length so you don't cut into the piston. Spread the slot with a screwdriver and the sleeve will fall off. You'll need a new sleeve, a set of rings and a bore job on the block. At this point I would plunk down the cash and make it a 1075.

I have a machine shop so I would make a puller first and try that, but the time it would take would cost more than a new sleeve.

Heavy pounding puts the cases and crank and its bearings at risk. Be careful with that. Good luck.

wiggle it side to side, use the wrist pin to stabilize it. I would have a chopsaw of some sort handy. cut the connecting rod in half.make sure not to get metal in the crankcase using a magnet. If it is not broke don't fix it.

Remember, it is like climbing a tree, you get down the opposite of how you climbed the tree in the begin with. so make sure to keep a welder handy also.

after step one it will be broke, so in step two you may proceed to fixing it.

after telling you this, I've got the utmost confidence in you.

I have telephoned the employees from the asylum, they will be there shortly to aid you with the frustration that this idea will have caused.

I finally did get the #1 piston un-stuck -- it yielded ultimately to pounding.

Here is the "secret sauce" that led to this 'breakthrough' or should I say 'breakfree':

- for the past 2 days when I found time to work on it, I had been using 2x2" pieces of lumber, cut to reasonable length, to pound on the piston

- while the piston *did* move a bit, the 2x2" lumber kept splitting

- so I switched from 2x2" wood to MOFO HARD STEEL.


I had a couple pieces of hardened steel shaft sitting around the shop for JUST THIS KIND OF JOB.


I knew I was going to have to start cutting anyway, and throw away the piston, no need to wimp around anymore with the wood.

Now, this steel shaft is as thick as a broom handle, and really heavy, it's nearly solid, I started pounded with my biggest sledgehammer, this time the spike did not split like the 2x2" wood. It drove that piston out the bottom in about 2 minutes of pounding.

So the cylinder came off. There is rust on the liner on the #1 bore. Does that mean the liner is toast, or can I hone it? I don't know metallurgy so for all I know, the rust goes deep enough that when that #1 liner reaches operating temperature, it distorts the bore and will stick the piston.

I know I'm throwing away the piston, not worth risking another tear-down.

So my question is:

- can I re-use the wrist pin?
- re-use the #1 cylinder liner?

New pistons come with new wrist pins,time for a 1075 kit.
Have the crank/rods checked also.
Don:just say no to street corner dope,I care if it is legal in your neighborhood now! :sick: :woohoo:

Update: three of my riding buddies, when they learned I'd pounded the piston out using a heavy metal 'dowel', actually the metal rod *was* as thick as a broom handle, and nearly solid hardened steel -- real heavy piece of rod --


-- so my riding buddies said basically "by pounding that #1 piston out like that, the pounding transferred to the wrist pin, the connecting rod, the crankshaft and the crank bearings and all those probably need to go in order to have any confidence in that motor."


I think what my buddies were *trying* to say is captured by this toy we've all seen:




So I do see their point. However, I'll be damned if I want to pull the motor and go all the way through it just because I banged that hard-stuck #1 piston free.

It came across to me in talking to them today that all that pounding meant it's a big risk going in there and only doing a 1075 kit and pretending the connecting rod and crank and bearings are okay, they want me to believe the bottom end took a beating that makes it real 'iffy' now.

But I do NOT want to pull and redo the bottom end.

I'm wondering if my well-intentioned riding buddies are pulling my leg on this deal?

They could be right....so I would go easy on the Cockiness....how many blows are we talking about?