got the head off #1 piston stuck in the bore help!

The entire cylinder moves up and down with the #1 piston! The other pistons are free in their bore.


Here's what I've tried so far:

1) penetrating oil bigtime on #1, dousing and dousing, liberally
2) put some household oil right in behind the Amazing Blaster
3) have whacked on the top center of the #1 piston using a big rubber mallet on a wood stake
4) put the bike in its top gear and rocked it, kicked it with kick starter, that dang #1 piston won't come free

I felt the #1 bore and it doesn't feel bad, and the bike had sat for years, and initially the other pistons were also stuck but they're free, it's only this #1 piston.

I am tempted to let the #1 piston and cylinder rise up off the crankcase, then lodge a wood block between the bottom of lifted-up cylinder and the cases, one piece of wood in front and one in back, then rotate the crank so it's not at TDC and whack that dang #1 piston like a stepchild.

Any other ideas?

Man thats messed up.....try any heat...have to be very carefull when heating the outer cyclinder/jug to get cyclinder to move off piston-to expand.

This is a suggestion as it might not be a gr8 idea....lets see what others think first. If the jug is painted it would ruin it ???

If you can figure out how to attach a gear puller or similar home-made device to the engine without damaging fins you could put a block of wood on the piston and tighten the threaded gear puller shaft against it. If it doesn't immediately break free you could let it sit with that pressure on it and penetrating oil on the cylinder wall and eventually it may pop free under the pressure. Ed

Been there done that. A torch and alot of heat on that piston. Thats all you can do on a locked up motor.

Couldn't you use the cylinder studs to apply downward pressure? A plate drilled and some bolcks of wood. Snug down slowly and let it sit with pb blaster overnite.
Wayne

Ive used the studs and a 3/8 inch thick piece of steel with a fine thread 7/16 bolt and a second smaller plate on top of the piston.

Put shims under the jug put the plate on the cylinder add the nuts and crank the bolt slowly should break loose

Buy a gallon of acetone at the hardware store and dump it down that cylinder overnight ,then try working the cylinder loose

wireman wrote: Buy a gallon of acetone at the hardware store and dump it down that cylinder overnight ,then try working the cylinder loose

he said ass e tone ..... :woohoo:

he said dump..... :silly:

Wow, didn't think of that! However I don't fully get the set-up. The piston got stuck pretty far down the bore, if I place the cylinder on the cases flush, the #1 piston looks like it's at BDC (bottom dead-center) position. And if I rotate the crank to lift the #1 piston up, the cylinder moves up so that the studs are no longer accessible to be used as leverage, the #1 piston is *deep* in the hole and as that piston moved up, it lifts the cylinder up very high. Even if I could get my nuts on there I would think it would be risky as I might not catch all the threads, so that if I started tightening them down maybe a stud would strip.


So I don't get how a steel plate on top of the cylinder is helping here.

How would I set this up? Again, with the cylinder setting flush on the cases, the #1 piston is stuck in my estimation at the lowest point. I don't see how to use the cylinder studs here for leverage. What am I missing here? And thanks for the tip, hope I can figure it out!

perverts! :woohoo:

Raise the cylinder block about 1" off the case and there
should still be enough stud to bolt a plate to.
Make the plate so you can still get a torch inside
the cylinder and apply heat to the TOP liner not the piston.
As the heat runs down the liner it will expand and let go of the piston.

Worst case I did use an air chisel one time to get a GT750 cylinder off the studs
for the crank.

if you lift the clyinders up, penetrating oil etc, and use the studs for leverage you can push the piston back down. That is if you don't have it at BDC or TDC, if you're somewhere in between the crank just rotates backwards when the piston is pushed down