Stock torque curve for 1997 KZ1000P?

Hello, all.

I've tried searching this site and also Google to find the factory spec torque curve for my motor. All I see are modified engine results or rear-wheel numbers that vary depending on who did the test.

Please point me to the real deal.

The reason I'm looking is, I seem to have a flat spot between 4,000 and 5,000 RPM. Pulls hard on both sides of that range. Normal?

Cheers,

Dave

If you have access to one, the FSM should have graphs near the front page. Ed

Ed;

I don't have the shop manual, only the Owner's Manual.

Does anybody here know if it's normal to have a flat spot in the HP and torque curves at about 4,500 RPM? If not, does that indicate a problem? Valves have been adjusted, head gasket replaced, carbs rebuilt, new plugs, coils, etc, etc.

Cheers,

Dave

www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99 is a PDF for the "J" engined Kawasaki's used for the police bikes.

And these people might be able to answer your question about a flat spot:
www.aperaceparts.com/tech/techkz1000.html

No I dont think there should be a flat spot in your torque curve where it picks up again,Id check ignition and carbs again

It's not a perfect line in the power. I seem to recall a spot where it goes up not as fast in the middle, but it wasn't completely flat. I don't recall if my manual showed torque or just power, but if the power goes up at a shallower angle than the rest of the graph, that'd be a flatter spot in torque. Hell, I've seen torque drops part way through on some dyno's, but it shouldn't be enough to notice.

And torque and power can't both be flat at the same RPM, cause maths.

Mucho thanks, MFolks!

This FSM will be helpful. Note that it does not contain HP or Torque curves.

Cheers,

Dave

any mods to the filters, carbs, or exhaust? could be that theres a setup issue.


this is just an example of the job the jets do and how if ones off it can cause a flat spot on hand off. i stole this graph from the site link sited at the bottom that has some lamens term explinations.

www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

most 4 into 1 headers will cause a flat spot at 4500..

KZ1000-A1 curve from FSM --





Good Fortune!

Mucho thanks, Patton!

So, the torque curve is basically flat from 4,000 to 7,000 RPM, but power output is almost linear from 3,000 to 8,000 RPM. I shouldn't be able to feel any "gaps" during acceleration. Guess I will have to figure out what's going on.

Cheers,

Dave

What weight and type of engine oil being used? The energy conserving(Car) oils contain friction modifiers that do not work well with the starting and final drive clutches.

Best Oils To Use In Your Bike (Just My Opinion)

Engine oil : The commercial grade oils are clearly superior to the mass market oils. For the best protection in your bike or car, use Shell Rotella Synthetic, available at Wal-Mart in blue containers . For the best petroleum oil you can buy, get Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300, or Chevron Delo 400, available at any auto parts store. On the back of most oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut.

These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. The EPA mandated certain gas mileage, so the auto makers turned to the oil manufacturers who came up with friction modifiers of the oil to meet these new standards. All XXw-20 and XXw-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle. Don't buy any oil additives like STP or Slick-50. Here's several listings on all about oil justifying these conclusions.

The Recommended Synthetic Oils :

Shell Rotella Synthetic
5w-40 Delvac 1 Synthetic
5w-40 AMSOil AMF Synthetic (pricey, but it’s your money)
10w-40 Golden Spectro Synthetic
10w-50 Motul 5100 Synthetic
10w-40 Mobil-1 Synthetic
15w-50 Mobil-1 MX4T Synthetic

The best synthetics are: (in no particular order)

Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w-40 (blue container is synthetic, not white which is dino), gallon at Wal-Mart.
Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40 (grey container is synthetic, not black which is dino), gallon at Petro stations, gallon at Farm and Fleet.
Mobil-1 SUV 5w-40, qt anywhere.
AMSOil AMF 10w-40 synthetic motorcycle oil. (again, pricey)
Golden Spectro Supreme, (no price).
Motul 5100 Ester, (no price).

Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.


The Recommended Petroleum Oils

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40
Delvac 1300 15w-40
Shell Rotella 15w-40

The best petroleum oils are: (in no particular order)

Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 (blue container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Costco.

Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 (black container) gallon at any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 (white container) gallon at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, gallons at Sam's Club.

Castrol 15w-40 (Green container) gallon at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store, gallons at Sam’s club.


JASO OIL SPECS:
Find an oil that shows the JASO-MA rating on the bottle; there are plenty of them available both dino and synthetic.

The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engines from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers."

These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not.

That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the JASO MA class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches.

Using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard may be destructive to KZ clutches. Here's a link that may be helpful:

www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php