Cant get cam timing right, going crazy

When viewed under a timing light at higher rpm, the twin advance marks are supposed to align with the case mark.

Good Fortune!

These links are to info and suggestions contributed by RonKZ650:

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/475461-re...ving-the-cams#475461
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/249136-re...seating-issue#249136
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/221680-revalve-clearance#221680
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/146192-revalve-shims#146192
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/21185-re6...lve-clearances#21185

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:

When viewed under a timing light at higher rpm, the twin advance marks are supposed to align with the case mark.

Good Fortune!

I am not a big fan of having to time cams. although i am looking for one of those center spinamagig under the bolt and washer for the timing dealy. It has the two tangs on there and one of my tangs broke so i am not sure if i really need it, but i would like to replace it.

What kind of engine is this, i think you are in the wrong place. this is for KZ for going crazy.

The F mark is used in connection with ignition timing (when spark plugs fire).

The T mark is used in connection with cam timing (when valves open and close).















Good Fortune!

Good Fortune!

Are you sure nothing fell into the cam chain tunnel? Are all of the valve cover half-moons accounted for?

The symptom of chain slack jumping, and marks being different after a rotation, are signs that something is on the timing chain's crankshaft sprocket.

Also, this kind of thing can happen if you turn the crank backwards. It should only go forward. On the inline-fours, the crank should rotate the same direction as the wheels.

looks like the inlet side could be moved down two links
.

All you can do is after putting the engine at the T mark, line up your exhaust arrow to the top of the head. It may not be exact because of possible cam chain wear. All you can do is pick the chain link that is closest to being aligned correctly. After this count back your pins to the intake and install the cam. If the intake is then not aligned with the head, most likely the cam chain is stretched beyond normal service limits. This is what it sounds like to me. Of course the tensioner takes up slack, but the measured length of the chain between the cams and their timing marks can be longer by an entire 1T or more on a worn chain, so the intake will be more retarded in timing the more worn the chain gets.

I wonder how many combinations there are. Kinda like a combination lock. so many to the right so many to the left and so many to the other way, how many teeth are on those cogs?

Ok so I put it back together how I had it in the picture and it runs good. I guess maybe with cam chain wear they dont line up exactly where the manual says like ronKZ650 suggested. There was nothing I could do to get them any closer. Man this was a nightmare of a job. all was going good untill I dropped one of the cam guide sprocket spacers down in the tunnel and it was downhill from there. It took me 2 hours to locate it not counting the time removing the header and oil pan. Next time I will stick a rag in it to be sure nothing falls down in there. Thanks again for all the help, had I not posted those pictures I would still be trying to line those damn things up per manual. I also ran a high mixture of seafoam before I synced the carbs and now this thing will wheelie quiet easily lol

And remember, if you have the bike leaning while doing this, it is very easy to have the chain slip a tooth or more on the crank. I always have Z's straight up and down when doing cam timing. Ive seen it drive people nuts.