Too Tight Cam Chain

Take both cams out! Hold chain, and rotate engine see if chain hasn't bunched in the bottom plumbers block as others have suggested. Good idea ApeJay .... check the package the chain came in!
RegardZ.

PS. Just had another thought.... LONG- shot!.....Perhaps the sprocket idler with the chain adjusting wheel hanging from it, is mounted the wrong way around ..... causing the chain to have tension!..... LONG SHOT!

Garn wrote: Take both cams out! Hold chain, and rotate engine see if chain hasn't bunched in the bottom plumbers block as others have suggested. Good idea ApeJay .... check the package the chain came in!
RegardZ.

PS. Just had another thought.... LONG- shot!.....Perhaps the sprocket idler with the chain adjusting wheel hanging from it, is mounted the wrong way around ..... causing the chain to have tension!..... LONG SHOT!

I've seen that happen. It's worth checking, considering the intake cam is rocked back.

A couple of things in the picture are hard to see clearly. In particular, the index mark for the exhaust cam. I see what looks like 2 possible marks but one looks like it's been scribed by hand. It's the one indicated by the yellow arrow in the pic.

What looks bad is it's too high above the valve cover surface.

There's another mark, not easily visible unless you blow up the pic. It's indicated by the blue arrow in the pic. It's more correctly oriented in relation to the valve over surface. If that one is the factory index mark, then the pin count is off by 1 pin.

However, it doesn't explain the lack of slack. If the pin count is 29 vs 28, there should be plenty of slack in the chain between the cams unless there's a problem elsewhere.

So, BB, what was the problem... need a bit of feed-back.
regardZ.

Dying to know what the problem is/was.

Hi Guys,

Well, I installed a 120 link chain as any good mentally challenged rookie would do. I wont mention the company I ordered from, but needless to say, I wont be using them again.... They sent me the wrong chain, I didn't check, these things happen.. Good practice at splitting the cases, I have the 124 link chain installed and she fits well, it is really tight, but turns nicely.

One thing, I stripped a thread in the #1 cam cap. What is the best way to repair this, a buddy mentioned some sort of device you would insert in the drilled out thread? any thoughts?

Thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated. Sorry for the delay in responses - this work thing sure gets in the way of bike rebuilds..

Cheers, Brendan.

Glad you found the problem.

Look up Helicoil for thread repair and follow simple instructions

Their is more than one manufacter of helicoil type products depending on where you are. Best done off the bike to insure proper alignment of drilling so more damage is not done.
Good Luck
Dave

2 suggestions:

Timesert for thread repair:
www.timesert.com/

In the future use a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds to prevent stripped threads.

650ed wrote: 2 suggestions:

Timesert for thread repair:
www.timesert.com/

In the future use a torque wrench calibrated in inch/pounds to prevent stripped threads.

X2

Timesert is the BEST choice, it's like installing steel nuts in the aluminum.

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the vendor. We have seen the wrong chain in the box on a couple of occasions.

However, The KZ takes the peanut style chain like in Larry's photo above. I don't even know of any KZ that takes a 120 link chain.

120 is the standard Suzuki GS1000/1100/1150 size, but they are a flat side plate style.

We don't even stock a 120 peanut chain. Not sure where you would get one if you needed one.

I think BB met to say 122 link chain. He needed a 124 link, although looking at his first picture it sure does look tight!
An easy mistake to make by buyer or vendor.
RegardZ.