KZ1000 No.2 cylinder just won't work.

You may also want to check for a clogged air bleed in that carburetor. Air bleeds lean the incoming mixture by a metered air supply to blend and help with proper amounts of syphoned fuel from the bowl. If this air bleed gets clogged, the carb will suck straight fuel and richen the mixture. There are bleeds for the low speed(pilot) jet and fir the high speed(main) jet. Air and carb clean or torch tip cleaners work well usually or a guitar string or piece of wire. Good luck!

What the hell is a "Pilot Air Jet" ????

I have the carbs on my bench as we speak, and I'm pulling down 1 and 2 and comparing them. Pilot Air Jet isn't events listed in the components (or have I missed it?)

The model of my carbs is suppposed to be BS32.....how can i tell ?

Checking the Pilot Jet and the main jet for numbers to see if they're the right ones....they're different so far according to the book. Just about to compare numbers between 1 & 2 carbies to see if they're all the same. Theoretically, even if they don't match what's in the manual, if No1 is working and No2 has the same bits.....they should all work.
:dry:

The numbers I have so far are as follows :

Needle Jet - Y7
Pilot Jet - 37.5
Jet Needle - 5CF59

The needle jet number doesn't match with my manual - it says it should be Y1
The Jet needle doesn't match - it should be 5FL51
The Pilot jet is correct.
I don't know how to find the number for the Main jet, or where it actually is. My manual (in the schematic) shows the main jet as part 48....which is the screw that goes into (61), the needle jet.

Going mad here.

Peter

The Air Jet, will be pressed into the Air Horn Carb intake side. There will be one Air Bleed for the Main Circuit, right at the bottom inside the end of the small tube. Then the Slow Speed, or Pilot Air Bleed will also be located in the small tube, but up a little higher, it will be the smaller dia one.
I would also make sure the choke plunger has a good seal on the end of it, and it is fully seating to seal the enrichment circuit.
Then if your bike is a Export model, non USA, or the Carbs are not the original for the bike, it may have different jets. The main jet is the big slotted screw you took out to get the Needle Jet, Y-7 out. It would have had a washer under it, which seals the fuel well, so the fuel can only enter through the Main Jet.
Look at this BS34 jetting that has been used from Kawasaki, which is from the UK, Non USA:



Also where your float valve is, the needle and seat, pull the screw next to the seat, and carefully pull the seat out. There is an o-ring around the outer dia of the seat that likes to fail, also a screen on the inlet side.

G'day Motorhead - and thanks for replying.

My bike is a U.S model.

I will check the choke plunger today. The stuff you mentioned around the needle and seat - I've actually pulled them out before and found I had a torn rubber o ring, so I know what you mean about that. It didn't fix my problem.

The stuff you mention in your first paragraph, I'll look at today whent he carb is in front of me.

When I had a look at that attachment for UK bikes, my jet needle size was not there, but was very close.....mine is 5CF59 and some of the UK ones were 5CF58. I figure it doesn't matter too much because if the other carbs are working then this one should to if they all have the same components.

Peter

First keep in mind that the BS carbs were used on several different Kawasaki models, as well as other brands of bikes. It could be the set you have did not come stock on your machine, after all it is 30 years old.

Now having said that, IIRC the jet needle on the US market bikes only had a single adjustment slot, while those from other markets had more (5) slots for adjustment. Which do you have? Some of the carb rebuild kits come with needles that have the aditional slots.

Also keep in mind that it is the combination of the needle jet, its size, and jet needle's taper(s) and where they begin and end, that determine the amount of fuel pulled through it.

I've got the needle with the single adjustment slot.

I've just been out making sure all the holes are clear and the parts are in good shape. Just been putting it back together now (No.2 carb). Been comparing it with No.1 - all the same, and in good shape. I will be getting a new kit to put through it, but understand that at the moment I'm just checking for blocked galleries etc and the components do look in good shape.

One stupid mistake - I've lost the damn tiny filter which goes on the valve seat for the needle and seat. I'm not sure it's that important - it's a tiny little filter that just clips on the end of the brass fitting. I might just try putting it back together with out it till i get a new kit. Please let me know if anyone thinks this is a big deal, or something that would stop it from working - I don't think it will.

In any case, will be reassembling today and putting it on. I also did a voltage check on volts going into the coils.....I think it was 12.5 from memory, which i assume is good, so i think I'm getting the spark. If I can't figure out the problem by playing with the carbs, I'm starting to wonder about the cylinder itself. I'm just going over in my head the various reasons that the spark plug would be black and the cylinder not firing properly.

Peter

That small screen shouldn't be an issue, as long as you have a good condition screen above the petcock and a good gravity system in line filter. Those Paper ones for cars, with a pump system will restrict flow.

Well.....I'm done. I'm just going to ride the thing.

Pulled No.2 carb down and checked all the holes (made sure they were clear), cheacked all the components - seem good. Was one hole which may have been a little blocked, - if it was it's clear now.

Put it all back together - did a tube test for fuel height - seems right. Fired it up. Seemed to run smoother than normal. I thought I'd do my plug test....pull it off while running and see if it makes a difference to the motor - it actually seemed like the cylinder was firing. There was a small change in engine performance when I pulled No.2 plug. So......I warmed it up and took the choke off. Tried again.....no difference.

I adjusted the idle so the revs were 2000 rpm. I pulled the plug and the revs dropped maybe 300 rpm. When I did all the other plugs the drop was at least 500 rpm.

I don't know....that'll do me. I'm just tired. I think it's definitely beyond my expertise and I simply can't afford to drop it somewhere and say - fix it.

Might change the leads to new ones, but part of me knows that won't work. It still rides good.....just not 100%. I hate it that the cylinder isn't working like it should. Anyway....thanks for all the help. Time to walk away for a while and just forget about it. I feel it's something simple, but it's got me stumped. I would love to grab another set of carbns and stick them on, but it's not that easy down here.
Thanks heaps for your advice and input guys - very much appreciated.

peter

Thats to bad, hate to see that. Tell you what, send me your address down under, and I'll send you 4 feet of 7mm wire for your ignition. My friend has a couple of rolls in his garage and I'll talk him out of some. It'll be like this, www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/M...eyword=plug+wire+7mm
I'll be out to his place over the weekend and can arrange it, send it etc. Just send me your address in a Personal Message www.kzrider.com/forum/pm
That'll give you a bit to think about it. I still don't like your low compression figures. I don't know if you have access to a Leak Down Tester to see what percentage of 100 psi the cylinders hold.
Didn't you check your valve clearances, before? Seems like its posted around here somewhere.

Also quite a simple thing to check, what are your Spark Plug Numbers? If the Correct Plugs, they will be Non Resistor No "R" in the number. If you have resistor plugs, and resistor plug caps, it will lower the spark energy quite a bit, to low. Resistor caps on the end or the wires is stock. But regular plugs need to be used with them, not resistor plugs or plug wires.

Also while though carbs were off, did you remove the Mixture Screws for the Idle/ Pilot circuit? They may still have the small metal plug over them, which needs to be removed to access them.

G'day Motorhead,

Mate, thanks so much for the offer of the cable.....I actually got some cable a couple of days ago. Let me give you a bit of an update.

After walking away and thinking I'd had enough, I went and made up a new lead for No.2. Was running short of time and figured I'd give it a go. Rode the bike to work.....seems to be starving a bit when you accellerate, but if you go easy on it it's fine - I think I know what the problem is. I have a feeling I haven't tightened all the "tubes" on the inlet side of the carbs - some of the screws are pretty ordinary.

Anyway.......I'm at work telling the guys about how ticked off I am and demonstrate how No.2 doesn't work. Guess what ??? No.2 is working.......BUT, No.1 isnt.

This is good and bad. It tells me the cylinder is working, it's not stuffed. It also made me think what the heck i did with the carbs for No.1 not to be working and I think I may have actually swapped a couple of bits between 1 & 2. The stupid thing is.....I can't remember which bits. i was pretty frustrated with it and just played around, not really thinking it'd make a difference.

So......I'm keeping an eye on it. Hopefully No.2 will keep working, in which case i may get my carbs fully reconditioned by someone who knows what they're doing. I am very happy though that this may be the problem, although I have no idea at all which parts are failing.

Thanks again for your concern - it's really appreciated that someone else gives a darn. My plugs are B8ES by the way....no "R".

Peter