clutch replacement

Alright, my clutch has been slipping on my kz to the point where I got whooped by a stock neon, before I go on replacing it, is there a certain brand or performance clutch that works on a stock kz? I'm thinking of ordering a barnett kit, anyone familiar with one?

stunter956 wrote: Alright, my clutch has been slipping on my kz to the point where I got whooped by a stock neon, before I go on replacing it, is there a certain brand or performance clutch that works on a stock kz? I'm thinking of ordering a barnett kit, anyone familiar with one?

Recalling an earlier thread with history of clutch issues, and one post about where reversing the push-rod improved clutch performance -- which might indicate a bent push-rod.

Has the routine clutch push-rod adjustment been performed? Specified gap setting?

And the push-rod in good condition, clean, and not sticking in its channel?

An otherwise perfect clutch will slip when the push rod isn't properly adjusted to provide the specified gap between the actuator assembly and the push-rod.





Good Fortune!

Stock kawasaki clutches are the best depending on who you ask.
Pull it apart and make sure your steel discs are all flat on a piece of glass,if you have access to a glass beading cabinet go ahead and blast the steel plates.
Measure your springs if theyre good reuse them,if not get stock replacement springs.
Install a new set of factory fiber discs after soaking them in good oil for a few hrs.

Oh by the way it dont matter if that neon was stock or not,thats just totally wrong! :sick: :woohoo:
Thats the problem with having a bike with a 48" long swingarm with a big ass tire and an usd frontend packing a stock motor and a bad clutch ,sometimes you have to be able to back it up! :woohoo:

wireman wrote: Oh by the way it dont matter if that neon was stock or not,thats just totally wrong! :sick: :woohoo:
Thats the problem with having a bike with a 48" long swingarm with a big ass tire and an usd frontend packing a stock motor and a bad clutch ,sometimes you have to be able to back it up! :woohoo:

Man, im crying from laughing so hard...... :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

Barnett or APE kits, nothing wrong with them, superior grip but tiring on the hands for daily street use...

Z1 has everything you need for OEM steel & friction plates and springs..
Do yourself a favor and just replace all for ~ $150 and be done with it...

Price have changed since I ordered for my '76 KZ900 but here's the numbers...


In case you need...

did it start slipping after you changed your engine oil ? using oils that are"nt made for use with wet clutches can make your clutch slip :ohmy:

Lol its not that I wanted to stretch the bike, its because I had to in order to put that wide zx7 swingarm without opening the frame or anything like that, about the push rod it is traight and I remember greasing it the first time around, plus I have adjsted all three adjusters from the handlebar, the cable and the actuator, and still slips, I'm guessing this bike still has stock plates too, since I don't know its history from its previous owner. Oh and I use valvoline 10w-40 oil on it

Is it some kind of valvoline that's rated for bike's? Don't run regular car oil in a motorcycle, it doesn't work, they have additives which jack with the wet clutches motorcycles use. See any of various oil threads around the site.

If it isn't rated for motorcycles, drain it, and inspect your clutch, may just need to put the proper oil in, may need to replace some clutch plates.

Valvoline has a specific motorcycle oil, but it only comes in 20-50 from what I see on their website. Their regular 10-40 might be rated for bikes, but since they seem to have a seperate line specifically for bikes, I'm guessing it isn't. Check for JASO MA rating on oil, if it isn't there, don't put it in your bike.

Thanx for the info, actually we have ran regular oil on all our bikes and run just fine, oil will be oil, usually oil for motorcycles is really expensive and turns out being the same u wuld get in an autoparts store. Either way I will probably try another type and still replace the pads

Well, newer oils use a lot of additives to reduce friction in the engine for improved mileage (what with all this eco-friendly trend stuff). That's what causes the problems. You don't have to buy oil that says it's for motorcycles on the bottle (because you're right, they'll just jack up the price), but if it has that JASO MA rating on it, it won't have all those friction modifiers added to it, and is better to run in bikes. There are definitely differences in oil. Check some of the threads around here, I want to say Rotella T seems to be this forums brand of choice, but I can't ever keep them all straight, whatever exact one it is, it's available at wal-mart by the gallon, and is cheap because it doesn't say motorcycle on the front.