More issues. '82 1100A

Well here's the latest.

Spent a bunch of money on plugs, wires, caps, etc. Went through the entire wiring harness, cleaned every connector alive with de-oxit. Everything has good voltage, spark looked good, compression tests came out fine, I'm lost.

There's no reason (other than carbs) that this piece of $#!t won't run. Started decently, but smoked like a damn chimney on startup out of the LH muffler. Go ahead and watch the video. That's the noise it makes in the engine when running, and it will absolutely not idle or run below 1500rpm.

Any ideas or help would be fantastic. If I can't figure this out, I'll likely just part it out to get my money back and say eff it.

Thanks guys.

its not that hard of a job but i would pull carbs off and have a look you would be surprised whats under them bowls.
sounds like slow jets are bound up.
1500 rpm down is controlled my them

Are the plug wires from the coils hooked up correctly?




Good Fortune!

The coil/plug wires are hooked up correctly.

Would carbs cause this ridiculous smoking and noise? I mean I understand that they'll cause all sorts of issues, but heavy smoke and sounding like it's going to shit the bed?

Looks like I'm chasing multiple issues. Pulled off the stator cover to find the starter clutch barely holding on, and causing the knocking noise. Ordering rebuild kit for it and new screws. After that, we'll dig in the carbs.

Some engines have a woodruff key on the alternator shaft, preventing the rotor from spinning. The key resembles a half moon shape with a machined slot in the crankshaft where the rotor goes.Others are nothing more than being held on the shaft with the torque from the rotor bolt.

Looks like the 3 mounting bolts for the starter clutch are FUBAR. Z1 doesn't list them, am I screwed with having to go to the dealer? They have 12.9 stamped on them so I'm assuming a regular grade bolt won't do the trick.

Those are probably metric version of a grade 8 bolt.
My speakers dont work on my computer so I couldnt hear your video but once you get the starter clutch back together it definately wouldnt hurt to clean/scrub carbs out if its black smoke rolling out your exhuast when you start it id guess fuel.
As long as youre in there pick up a valve cover gasket and check valve clearances,a cylinder with a valve hanging open would be tough to start also and would need a higher idle to compensate for lower compression to keep it running

Babbits shows those as being 8x16mm socket/allen head bolts,might be a lot cheaper to get them through bolt depot.com
Bolt depot shows those bolts for .23 each on their site.

Yes 12.9 is their grade. It's roughly equivalent to a grade 8, but metric.

www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-m...c-grades-d_1428.html

www.engineeringtoolbox.com/steel-bolts-sae-grades-d_1426.html

think it actually works out a little stronger than a grade 8, but same idea. If it's a standard bolt size (sometimes you get lucky), you can pick up 12.9 class bolts at an Ace Hardware, or equivalent.

Try www.boltdepot.com Most local hardware stores may not carry bolts with the correct hardness, and they could either strip out or shear off. Don't use SS there as thet are softer than steel grade 5 bolts.

MFolks wrote: Some engines have a woodruff key on the alternator shaft, preventing the rotor from spinning. The key resembles a half moon shape with a machined slot in the crankshaft where the rotor goes.Others are nothing more than being held on the shaft with the torque from the rotor bolt.

Kawasaki quit using that setup in 79. It helps if you've actually worked on bikes that you post tips on how to fix