Another won't start thread

Bike's been running fine then today it won't start. The starter cranks over but it just won't fire up. I've got fuel and spark and compression is at 130 and 115 (this is a twin).

I know my starter clutch has started to go. I'll occassionally get a marbly grinding sound from the starter followed by what sounds like the starter spinning freely. But even when that doesn't happen it still won't start.

I noticed today that my kick lever is moving way too freely. It's like it isn't turning over the engine at all. I push down on it and it just goes straight down with little to no resistance.

Prior to these problems (just a few days ago) I was running fine. I performed an oil change and swapped out the right side cover with a newer/shinier one. After putting the right side cover back on I started the bike, set the timing, made sure everything was OK, but didn't have time to go for a ride. Bike sat for a few days, I went to start it this morning and it won't start.

It's that kick lever not "catching" that has me really worried. I don't usually start it by kick, but it used to work.

will it bump start

I've never tried that. Is it like push starting a car?

One more thing to note. When I pulled the plugs they were a little black. I cleaned them up and verified spark, but it is a little weak.

Spring #10 pulls the lever back up, but #19 is there to work with the kicker gear. So maybe when you changed the cover, this is where either the end of the spring is not engaged properly, or something is binding.



The no-start, well the only thing you changed was the timing, but you say the spark looks weak.
The easiest thing to check out, is the points and condenser. Look at the points surface, and dirt grease etc will make a poor contact. These must have good contact as when they are closed, they supply the ground for the coil to charge up for the spark. Just like having bad switch contacts. Also the gap, the gap must be correct as it is the time of charge for the coil, (Dwell). Anything look pitted, you should file them smooth again or better to get a new set, and I would do the condenser at the same time. Z1enterprises will have a kit for you Topper.

Good thing it performed well during the Relay.

I checked the points and set the point gap and the timing right after replacing the right side cover. The bike ran then, but like I said I didn't go for a ride.

I'm going to buy some new plugs today as it's a cheap easy thing to test. If that's what it is then I'll have to figure out what's fouling my plugs as this set is not old.

Got any pictures of the plugs, wet with oil or dry black carbon?
After you set the Gap on the points the other day, did you clean them up. Sometimes just the residue on a feeler gauge is enough to dirty them and make a poor contact. Get a clean white business card, or similar paper. Then put it between the points, and drag the paper out. Must not be rough and pitted or it will leave paper behind. I always clean a new set also.

Seems more like carbon. I cleaned them off fairly well with a wire brush and checked the gap. Spark still looks a little weak.

Last time I changed the plugs (6-8 weeks ago) I checked them after a couple rides and they looked good. No carbon build up, decent color.

Before I changed the oil I added some Seafoam to the oil and rode for about 50 miles, then drained and changed the oil and filter. Could the Seafoam or the sludge it broke up cause the plugs to foul?

I'm still not convinced fouled plugs is the problem. It's just the easiest thing to check at this point.

I wouldn't think the Seafoam would be an issue. But the weak spark definitely a problem. New plugs are easy for sure, but recheck the spark with new ones. It will probably still be weak. So then you can start with the diagnostics on that. Low voltage to the coils, poor points contact, condenser problem, etc.

Tried new plugs in the hope it'd be that easy, but no such luck.

I've tested the primary and secondary windings on the coil, set the point gap, checked voltage at the coil, check resistance in spark plug caps. Everything is with spec but I still have extremely weak and intermittent spark.

Any ideas?

Let's see, causes of weak spark:
1.Failing ignition coils.
2.Sparkplug wires have gone bad(when you checked the sparkplug caps resistance, did you cut about 1/4" off the end of the sperkplug wire & then re-install the caps?)
3. If you have points, did you replace the capacitors? They go bad after many years.

How's the battery condition? Ed

After 700 failed attempts to start, it's pretty drained. I think it's time to put it on trickle charge and start again tomorrow.

I've not really made any progress. I can confirm that my concern with the kick starter was unwarrented. Bone head move #145 I had the clutch lever held with a strap to make checking for spark easier. Forgot it was there when I discovered the kick lever had no resistance. So at least that's explained.