Diagnostic testing on '82 1100

Testing on the red leads of the coils showed a consistent 12.xx on the meter. Was actually quite surprised that it was that high. On my GS bikes, there was always a 2-3 volt drop which called for setting up relays on the coils and refurbishing the entire harness.

Spark, however, was quite weak in my opinion. Could barely see the spark on 1,2,and 4, and 3 was non-existent. I took a video of the spark, but it showed up MUCH brighter in the video than it does in real life.

If your ignition coils are original to the bike, it's way past time to get new ones. Even when new, they were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank, and now they've failed.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered. When re-installing the old or new sparkplug caps, cut about ¼” off the sparkplug wires for a new un-corroded connection.

Never run supression sparkplug wires with sparkplug caps containing the 5000 ohm resistor, as now there will be two (2) resistances in the ignition coil’s secondary circuit, causing weak and intermittent spark.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED ENGINE COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

8. The mechanical ignition advancer needs periodic service too, it's in the area of the pickup coils, mounted on the end of the crankshaft. Some light lubrication on the weight pivots and the moving shaft are about all it needs. A dab of Moly grease or 3-in-one oil will work for this.

---Changed the thread title to more accurately represent what we're doing now.---

OK, after a few hours in the lab, here's the results so far:

COILS:
LH INPUT VOLTAGE: 12.45V
RH INPUT VOLTAGE: 12.48V

LH INPUT TERMINALS RESISTANCE (OHMS): 2.7
(200 SETTING MEASURED ACROSS TERMINALS)
RH INPUT TERMINALS RESISTANCE (OHMS): 2.5
(200 SETTING MEASURED ACROSS TERMINALS)

LH OUTPUT TERMINALS RESISTANCE (OHMS): 11.85
(20K SETTING MEASURED ACROSS TERMINALS - NO READING ON 200 OR 2000 SETTING)
RH OUTPUT TERMINALS RESISTANCE (OHMS): 11.55
(20K SETTING MEASURED ACROSS TERMINALS - NO READING ON 200 OR 2000 SETTING)

CAPS:
(20K SETTING)
CYLINDER 1: 4.94
CYLINDER 2: 4.72
CYLINDER 3: 4.62
CYLINDER 4: 5.06

WIRES:
(200 SETTING)
CYLINDER 1: 0.04
CYLINDER 2: 0.07
CYLINDER 3: 0.03
CYLINDER 4: 0.04

That's what I've got so far. next step would be to test the pickup coils, and I'm going out to try that now. Thanks for all your help, guys.

PICKUP COILS:
YELLOW TO RED: 426
BLACK TO BLUE: 435

Looks good there.

I'd sugest some new ignition coils, you should see a hot,fat, blue spark at the sparkplugs. The stock coils even when new, were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank, and they have gone past their life expectancies.

Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1.Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.

2.Copper plug wires with supression caps(a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike).

3.Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number, like B8RES).

4.Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be two (2) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come awfully close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).

For a considerable "Boost" in starting the engine, get yourself a good, used Honda starter:

Using A Honda Starter In A Kawasaki

Buda from the www.kzrider.com forum wrote:

Will not turn the engine over....10.25 10 1 comp 1170 cc......took starter out and ran it with a battery....the starter spins strong but starts to squeal after a second.....also the shaft has a lot of play side to side. Bad starter I’m guessing What do you guys think?

Took the starter apart.....the bushing on the drive end is cracked

MFolks Wrote:
For a stronger starter motor, read this:

Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. This owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance. Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

Buda Wrote:
Thanks M.....Just ordered the rebuild kit before I read your post....If that doesn't work out I'll give the Honda starter a shot.

Got a the Honda starter MFolks recommended (SM 220 12 volt 0.8 KW) on ebay...hell of a difference.....Turns over like the plugs are missing....I'm sure the new battery doesn't hurt, but its a hell of a difference.

Anyone else have any ideas? Would like a couple different opinions.

Welp, IF everything else is ok and the coils are really putting out what they should, then it could be a case of bad spark plugs. You said one of them is barely making a spark. Try swapping it with one of the plugs on the other coil and see of it is still the weak sister. You could, of course, try four new ones and see what you get.

P.S. I'd avoid bringing up that relay thing unless you like having rocks thrown at you. Some think that a properly functioning harness is superior to grafted on patches.
YMMV

Not sure how much there is to add, about everything is covered.
Keep in mind the wasted spark system has to have a complete circuit through Both of the plugs on the coil. If one is fouled, and spark is compromised, it will be on the other on that coil.
New coils would be best (Covered Already), I like the Accel coils, as the mounting/ connections is better/ no shorts.
While your into the Ignition, pull apart the mechanical advancer and clean and lube it. Just be aware its easy to reassemble 180 out. So if you don't see the Factory reference marks make some.
Valve Clearances, Must be checked Adjusted. Do this and make it right.
Then you can go on to the Carbs, basics like cleaning. Then set up the fuel levels, and do a running/ dynamic sync with a manometer.
you'll get there, they are great bikes. Its good to see that once you held open the throttle the compression is serviceable.