Diagnostic testing on '82 1100

Decided to do some compression testing today on the 82 1100 that I bought last week.

Pulled all plugs, cranked engine until numbers stopped climbing... Got interesting results...

Cylinders numbered as sitting on the bike - 75 - 120 - 85 - 90...

Seems pretty low to me. I have ZERO information on its history, but it does run. Doesn't idle on its own, but does run.

Any input? Could it just be in desperate need of a valve adjustment, or am I looking at opening it up to figure out what the dilemma is?

For a smooth engine, the compression should be within 10% of each cylinders. I'd do a leak down test to see if one or more valve(s) are hanging open. How's the sparkplugs look? Try putting a tablespoon of engine oil down the sparkplug holes and doing the compression test again, this is a test for worn piston rings.

Here's a PDF shop manual:
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99

check your valve clearances, and yes that is Low. :sick:
Like Mike said, Leak Down Test but I'd check the valve clearances. you can loosen up the cams to gain some clearance then do the leak down test.

did you hold throttle open....they are low numbers and should be questioned big time

I didn't hold the throttle open. I'll try it again that way and report back.

Well, I guess that's why they say to hold the throttle open.

Numbers as sitting on the bike - 145 - 145 - 120 - 140

I added a few spots of oil to that lower cylinder, and it jumped up to 140-145 after an initial burst of like 220.

So... Now my question goes to the 120... That still seems out-of-order. Should I worry about it? The bike has just over 48,000 miles on it.

All plugs are coal black, a couple are slightly wet.

Thanks guys.

not bad....3 looks a bit low but the others are good!

All plugs are coal black, a couple are slightly wet.

they should be dark tanish to gray not black....might be miles, burning oil or running too rich at the carbs....does it smoke at all???

On some bikes that have been sitting for a few years, the piston rings will take a "Set", that is, you're going to need some passes at wfo to get gas pressure built up enough to have the rings seal, and then after cooling off, do a compression test again.

I'd check the valve clearances first before doing any riding.

Checked the ignition coils input voltage?

Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.

9. To check the spark output at the sparkplugs, use these:

Ignition Spark Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8 Instead of grounding the sparkplug with the sparkplug wire attached, looking for a spark. This method puts the IC Igniter and ignition coils at risk of failure due to high currents, and possible internal shorting.

Sooty, black sparkplugs can have you stuck in the never ending cycle of carb cleaning and adjustment. Check your ignition system first before tearing into the carbs.


Ignition Coils And Sparkplug Wire Choices

What came with the bike, were ignition coils that even when new were marginal, add years of cooking under the tank in the stop and go traffic, and the coils will probably fail when hot.

Replacement coils can be bought at www.z1enterprises.com I believe “Emgo” is the brand. They also carry the popular Dyna 2.2 and 3 ohm coils, along with replacement sparkplug wires.

Now, you have a choice on sparkplug wires:

1.Copper plug wires with no supression caps (the best choice, but will produce audio noise on Radio’s and TV’s). Not only do the copper core wires deliver better spark, they will also deliver a much longer lifespan - carbon core wires are prone to erratic spark delivery and early breakdown, & short lifespan.

2.Copper plug wires with supression caps(a built in 5000 ohm resistor, that can sometimes fail, like what came with the bike).

3.Copper plug wires with no supression caps, but using resistor plugs(the “R” in the plug number, like B8RES).

4.Supression plug wires with no supression caps.

NEVER use resistor plugs combined with supression caps along with supression plug wires, as now there will be two (2) sources of resistance in the secondary windings of the ignition coils, greatly reducing the spark energy.

Another choice is the Accel 3 ohm coils, with a similar, primary(small wire)electrical connection, using ring terminals as the Dyna ignition coils do. Whatever brand of coil you go with, make sure the primary wires will clear the mounting hardware, as the spacers come awfully close, possibly blowing a fuse. Some riders have replaced the metal spacers with non conductive Nylon spacers, reducing the chance of an electrical problem.

7mm sparkplug wires will fit the stock ignition coils(if they have replaceable wires, indicated by screw off caps on the coils with ridges). The sparkplug wires fit into a port with a brass ”Stinger” that goes into the sparkplug wire or lead(the Brit’s. Canadians, and other countries call the sparkplug wires (“High Tension Leads”).

"Sooty, black sparkplugs can have you stuck in the never ending cycle of carb cleaning and adjustment. Check your ignition system first before tearing into the carbs."

Sounds to me like that's where I'll start tomorrow.

The spark should be a hot,fat, blue one,not weak and orange in color.