Compression check.

As in it presses into the shaft, like a button? I'll look at how hard it is to remove the swingarm, doesn't seem like it'd bee too difficult. Can the bevel just pull off as a separate unit, or does it share oil with the engine, or need to be disassembled a bunch to be removed?

Bevel shares oil with the motor, but comes off reasonably easy. Swing arm also comes off pretty quick. But if you want to pull the motor, or move it to access the EX stud, I would just do the shaft Disconnect from the engine at the Pin. Might be a 2 person job to line it back up though, depending on how far you pull the motor. Hopefully a bit of movement and then the drill, that EX stud will come out.

That's true, might not have to coem all the way off. I was looking today, and there appears to be some spots for alternate mounts on the engine, towards the bottom of the front. Mine's just mounted with the one at the bottom back, and the two towards the top at the front, but it's got some tabs sitting under the "alternate engine mounts," or whatever they're for. I may be able to undo the engine mounts, and just set it down on those and angle it over. Just a degree or two will give me room. Looks like I have plenty of methods to try out tomorrow.

Hmm. so, rocking the engine let me get to the stud. However, now there's a broken exhaust stud, plugged with a broken extractor stuck in the head. And there's not a left-hand drill bit set to be found in this town apparently. I'll spend some time tomorrow messing with it again, but so far, no good.

Those extractors can be a bitch to get out. i have some Carbide cutters for a Dremel type tool, which will cut through the extractor. All right rand rotation of course. Have you tried some PB Blaster on the Stud before trying the extractor? How about some Heat?

I've got it soaking in some more PB blaster now, I'll give it another squirt before bed. These extractors were so soft, I'm inclined to think I might drill through it easier than the bolt. I broke it with one hand applying minimal pressure. My arm torque-wrench (i.e. not a real one, just guessing) is saying 20 lb-ft applied to it when it broke. Just a crummy extractor. We'll see. I haven't tried heat, wasn't sure how good of an idea it would be to take a torch to the aluminum head.

Crappy Butter extractor set? Hopefully it will come out. If you can sharpen a punch to a point, try and turn the extractor counter clockwise with the punch and hammer. Sometimes just one degree of movement will get the extractor loose.

Well, the good news is that the extractor was so soft, I was able to just drill through it, and after trying a few other things finally managed to drill out enough of the stud, that the rest kind of just came apart. The threads were so trashed, I ended up just tapping it out to a 7mm, instead of the original 6. I pulled all the old studs out, and chased the threads with a 6mm tap. 2 of the other ones were so trashed, that the 6mm tap just bottomed out without actually threading, so I tapped them at 7mm also. I have no idea what the rpevious owner did to trash these threads so badly. I'm guessing lack of torque wrench. So the good news, is everything's nice and threaded now. But it turns out the selection for 7mm studs and screws is pretty limited. I found some 7mm screws online from McMaster-Carr, but that's really about it. Wasn't able to find any studs in that size, or any stainless options.

I'm open to suggestions as to what type of bolt I should be using for these. Generally speaking, studs should be better, but it might not be an option. If you know any good sources for hardware it'd be appreciated. Ace/Lowe's/Home depot failed me miserably, and I'd prefer not to bring them all the way out to 8mm until I absolutely have to. Eventually you start running out of metal on the sides of the holes, then you have another problem.

I'll check around tomorrow and see if maybe a 6mm helicoil fits right into a 7mm hole tap, but I didn't think to look into them ahead of time, didn't realize it'd be so hard to find 7mm studs.

Otherwise, I'll probably put in an order for what I can find on the 7mm's and just see how they work. The 6mm ones aren't a problem to find, much more standard.

Z1 ~ KZ900 used 6mm exhaust studs, which may be tapped for the 8mm stud used in later models.

Don't drill deeper than the existing hole.

Don't use a bolt instead of the stud.

Also need to enlarge holes in the clamps.

See earlier KZr threads for details.
Here's one of several:
www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/118154-ho...nstall-exhaust-studs

May also consider helicoils or threadserts.

Good Fortune!

So I got my hardware in today, and 7 of the 8 studs went in fine. The last one however, the boss split in half :ohmy: . Not really sure why, didn't over-torque it. And I had already tapped in at the correct diameter, so I figured that'd be smooth sailing.

Now I'm at a bit of a loss about what to do. Is there a way that can be repaired? Clearly it'd need to go to a machine shop or some such, but I'm really not sure of where to go from here.

Anyone ever try JB Weld in this scenario? Seems like a long shot, but I think I've hit the point of desperation.

Del_Herring wrote: So I got my hardware in today, and 7 of the 8 studs went in fine. The last one however, the boss split in half...at a bit of a loss about what to do. Is there a way that can be repaired? Clearly it'd need to go to a machine shop or some such, but I'm really not sure of where to go from here.

Would consult a professional welder who's proficient in welding aluminum.
As broken fins can be repaired, perhaps the broken boss could be likewise repaired.

Depending on condition after the welding, a machine shop might be needed to re-tap for the stud.

Good Fortune!