Yes Im a total newb

I would thoroughly clean all the oil off the outside of the engine before I did anything else. Then I would start the engine and see where the oil is leaking from. This will help you locate the source of the leak so you have a better chance of finding the best solution. Ed

I could be wrong, but I'm fairly confident the Spectres don't use the cable for the tach, we've got electrically operated ones I believe. So that'd rule out that problem. On the other hand, Mine had an oil leak, and I just re-torqued the head nuts and she was good to go again. May or may not work, your leak sounds worse than mine was, but it's free to try!

thejij wrote: pictures of the mess ....

thejij, I can't tell myself. You didn't include any pictures of the head at tachometer cable. If there is oil there, than it could be flowing down and dirtying the area you are showing in the pictures you posted. Check the head again but at the tach cable on the engine. If it has oil on it, than chances are it is it. A trick you can try in the future, is to clean all the oil with a nylon brush and polmolive soap or simple green. Rinse and dry, then spray on foot powder to cover the whole area you had the problem at. Run the bike for awhile or a short ride and you should able to pinpoint were the leak is coming form. Of course you already have your valve cover off so you can't do this easily without putting it back together. So you will have to rely on a visual instead. Look for the highest point that you see oil residue on the engine. As I mentioned possibly the tach cable connection.

Del_Herring wrote: I could be wrong, but I'm fairly confident the Spectres don't use the cable for the tach, we've got electrically operated ones I believe. So that'd rule out that problem. On the other hand, Mine had an oil leak, and I just re-torqued the head nuts and she was good to go again. May or may not work, your leak sounds worse than mine was, but it's free to try!

Yes, I thought of that but did not know on that model. Not sure when they went electronic on all models. But looking at the diagram in one of the posts on this thread it looks like it does use the electronic tach instead. So that rules that out.

Correct, the tach is electronic on mine. Since I have already drained the oil, and removed the ignition coils and valve cover... i might as well check it all out and replace what I can while its down. I cant ride it anyway... steering head seized and I order new bearings for it.. that wobble almost killed me(tank slapper).

Anyway... i think i got the T aligned correctly, so ill start removing the rest ... as always.. thanks for heads up guys ! much appreciated.

Im sure ill be posing more questions... i hope you dont mind.

so now you have the 1-4 "T" mark lined up, look at the cams, and find the mark at each of the valve cover surfaces. Front of engine is the Exhaust side, and the mark should line up with the leading edge of the gasket surface. Then the rear cam is Intake, and the line on it may be off because of the slack in your cam chain. This is set by the tensioner, and the guide inside the top of the valve cover. There is a Pin count for the links of chain between the EX and IN marks. You'll get to that during reassembly. For now, have you got a feeler gauge to check your valve clearances before removing the camshafts? Highly recommended to do this First. Then after checking, and returning to the 14 "T" mark, when removing the cams, get a piece of wire to hold the cam chain up to the frame section, so it doesn't fall inside the motor. When removing and installing the head you have to fish the wire through the cam tunnel, area. Don't forget about the tensioner, that will need the whole body removed, the 2 6mm bolts with the 10mm wrench head. The cap, 17mm wrench head, best to loosen while still on the bike. You'll pull that cap, and the wedge and spring out.

And before removing the chain from the cams, might I sugges marking the chain with a marker or some such to make sure you get it back in the same spot. You can, and should, also count links when reinstalling it, but I always worry I'll count wrong and mess it up. Not strictly necesary, but it always gives me a little piece of mind that I did, in fact, count right.

Oh.. i wish I had seen that post before i removed the cams from the chain.. what a good idea to mark it!! darn.

So anyway, I was correct... the gasket at the bottom is what was causing the problem.. i took pics along they way partly so I could brag and show people the muck i found !!!

Anyway.. here are the pics.. i have to order another gasket i guess.. cause I only have the valve cover one, and the cylinder head one... so im missing one to re-assemble, without leaks. Hope you enjoy the pics.. and if you see something i messed up on.. let me know. The cylinders look.. well.. gross but anyway.

Whoa, did it even have an old gasket?! I can't tell. Be careful with the piston rings. Since you have them out, you might consider replacing them.

So I would assume I need 2 gaskets that are :

www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?item=11060-1726

and one valve cover gasket. ( I already have 1 valve cover gasket, and 1 cylinder head gasket, just need the one more i guess )

Top and bottom are same gasket then the valve cover gasket? Sorry doing this without the repair manual that hasnt arrived yet... probably next week when im ready to replace it all lol

Am I right in my thinking?

thanks in advance
jer

The one you linked to is the base gasket. The top and bottom are NOT the same gasket. For some reason, if you go by model on Z1, this gasket does not pop up for your bike. But this is the appropriate cylinder head gasket: www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDetails.aspx?item=COC8012 according to the Kawasaki part number: 11004-1107. I would call Z1 just to confirm. They are very helpful.

[strike]Okay .. I have that one here at the house. So I do need the base gasket from Z1 still?, plus the one I have at home, and the valve cover one I have here at home too.[/strike]

Edit... okay I have what looks like the same at home.. so im guessing I have the base at home. I noticed the base gasket has no metal in it.. but the one in the middle does. And when I removed the one from the middle, it too had metal in it, for around the cylinders I would assume.

I guess I need to order one of those expensive ones from Z1 woohoo!