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Cam end plug blow out
- filztoy
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- MFolks
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1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- pete greek1
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1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A GALLON)!!!!
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- bountyhunter
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That surprises me. Is it possible they are installed backwards? The OEM ones have a metal flat on the inside surface.filztoy wrote: I installed my cam plugs with some yamabond ///3 good pulls of 9 grand shifts the right side exhaust plug blew out
Yeah, I would suspect that breather is too restrictive?filztoy wrote: maybe too much crankcase presure.I have a small filter pod with a 90 degree hose on the crankcase breather.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Kapahulu
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1978 KZ1000, 1976 KZ900, 1975 H2, 1973 H1, 1973 H2, 1978 RD400, 1977 RD400, 1974 RD350
2strokeworld.com
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- filztoy
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- pete greek1
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1980 LTD 1000..,1976 LTD 900, have the 1000&900 now. the rest are previous= 1978 KZ 650 B.., 1980 Yamaha XT 500..,1978 Yamaha DT 400.., 1977 Yamaha yz 80..,Honda trail ct 70.., Honda QA 50...5-1/2 hp brigs & straton CAT chopper mini bike...3-1/2 hp mini bike (WHEN GAS WAS ABOUT 45 CENTS A GALLON)!!!!
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- Kapahulu
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The rubber caps have to be installed in a specific way. Clean the head very thoroughly, then apply a film of 3-bond to the curved surfaces of the plug and head. Set the plugs in and then set the cover on (no gasket) and install bolts. Tighten the bolts (use fingers) and socket so the cover pulls down and seats the rubber plug into the head. You pull it down just far enough that the top of the plug is a shade higher than the top head surface. LET SEALER DRY OVERNIGHT. That secures the plug in the correct position to seal. Now install gasket and cover and torque bolts to about 70 inch pounds.
You can read the whole story in this thread .
1978 KZ1000, 1976 KZ900, 1975 H2, 1973 H1, 1973 H2, 1978 RD400, 1977 RD400, 1974 RD350
2strokeworld.com
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- Powerstroke_fan
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1980 kz1000B4 LTD- 1327cc 9-1 comp
Ported J model head
Psp-3x cams
RS 36s
Welded MK11 crank
Back-cut MK11 trans
MTC 2 stage lock up
Stretched 4-6 over running Hayabusa rear rim with 190 rear tire
Complete frame brace kit installed
And Much Much more- SOLD
2014- ZX14R all stock for now
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- bountyhunter
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RonKZ650 wrote: I'm sure Bounty Hunter procedure is just fine, but this is not a complex thing. If you have original Kawasaki plugs, I coat them with Yamabond #4 which I think is same as 3-bond. Coat the curved as well as the top of the plug and also out onto the head a little ways. Put on your gasket dry otherwise. Install the cam cover and torque it down, but keep an eye on the plugs and make sure they are looking like they are seating correctly and not squishing out for some reason. All done and I never have a plug blow out ever or leak ever. Now next time you need to remove the cam cover for any reason, just be sure the gasket all stays on the head and it can be reused many, many times and never leak. At least mine never do. Like I say, OEM plugs work fine this way, aftermarket is a crap shoot every time.
Actually, I bought Kawi OEM plugs and had one suck into the engine when installed all in one step. The problem is: rubber compresses more than aluminum. Where the cover gasket runs over the plug, the gasket will actually push the plug down below level with the aluminum. The gasket squeezes together a bit all places it is in an aluminum sandwich, but retains it's original width above the rubber plug since rubber doesn't push back like aluminum.
If installed and torqued in one step, mine would over squeeze the sealer around the rubber plug not leaving enough to hold in place.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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